Sparkplug Munching Ignites Full Restoration

Very smart them

 

Let us know how you get on with the clocks please

 

Lovely job - I'm enjoying this thread!

 

Red Scotchbrite will get the crud off nicely fella what sort of finish are you after ? The standard finish was a silver anodising which used to mark quite easily and wear off…

 

If it was me, I’d keep it silver and even go for a brushed look using the red scotchbrite then clear lacquer it.
If you want to go down the anodising Route, talk to Moss Metal Finishers in Halifax, top quality work. I do know that a black anodised finish is the hardest to do especially on a large item like a swing arm but they can advise you on what would work
Ian.

 

Nice project, following with interest. For your swinging arm, I’d have a chat with your powder coating company, they’ll probably be able to offer a clear coating for you. Obviously you need to make sure all engineered/contact surfaces are masked or blocked off.

I’ve had hundreds of items powder coated, plated and anodised over the 11yrs a (car) project has taken me; I hate to say it but I think the guidance given earlier with powder coating of the barrels and heads was correct, I think that you may find issues with that, once you fire it up…hopefully not. (I’m surprised the powder coaters didn’t give you the same guidance before doing it).

For anodising, when I’m fabricating parts or preparing parts to be plated, I generally work on the principle that the anodising reduces the surface “glossiness” by one notch. So, if you want that glossy look which expensive cycle parts have, you need to highly polish the base item. For this, my local platers ship it out to a metal polishing company who mop polish each item. Careful though, I’ve had parts that have come back with rounded corners because of ham fisted polishing; I generally do this myself now, delivering parts with the surface finish I want. For other parts where a final matt/light satin finish is wanted, then red Scotchbrite the same as you’re using is what I also use. The intercooler I’m using - full-bay width and about 4” deep, i.e., bloody huge, was black anodised as part of the build; I remember my pal Chris saying that the polishing of it took them a long time, and even now if I’m being fussy, the welds look duller compared to the high gloss of the billet CNC machined end tanks…I’m being penickety, but just to highlight that if you go down the anodising route, make sure the welds and the interface from weld bead to box section, receive attention when polishing, or it’ll look a bit crap and aftermarket.

My 2p? I’d keep it as close to stock looking as possible, be that vapour blasted finish and then clear powder coated, or brushed finish and the same….I’m not familiar enough with the SS or Superlights (yet) to know how the factory did it.

Hope that helps
Spencer

 

Sorry, don’t wish to labour the point, but in the spirit of trying to give you as much info to make a decision with….certainly in the aircooled Porsche world, I’ve never seen anyone coating the barrels or heads; the cooling is so critical on those things, with all the tinware, effective intercooler sealing, different number of fan blades etc etc, that adding any sort of coating onto the cooling fins would only prevent heat dissipation. Powder coating is very thick (by coating standards), so I think you may see increased engine temps (especially the vertical cylinder) and thus increased wear. I really would consider getting that coating removed (not by furnacing, as the coaters like to do) and rethink.

 

If you want a finish that will probably outlast the bike and is way more resilient to rock/debris being hurled at it by the back wheel, then go for a Cerakoted finish. Either a black finish or a clear protective coating. One of the advantages this process poses is despite it's strength, it is very thin and you therefore don't need to spend a millenium masking things up, as it won't gum up any threads or bushings, that rely on clean, unmolested tolerances. Try Hi-Spec Coatings in Sussex. They have undertaken lots of work in the past for previous Ducati owners and are quite reasonably priced given it's generally accepted to be a bit more expensive than most other options. I would not go down the anodising route as the chances of you getting consistent colour across such a large piece is negligible and will end up making it worse IMHO. Powder coating is the cheapest option but it does not stand up well to abrasion or high velocity debris and both dulls and scratches very easily.

 

Good point about consistency of anodised finishes Topolino. Until I started delving into this forum, I'd not really come across Cerakote, but am now thinking where I could sensibly use it on the car project!

What are your thoughts on using Cerakote for car suspension wishbones? Got another project where all 8 wishbones need blasting and coating; POR15 clear coating over a plated finish was going to be one consideration. Reluctant to powder coat, as the internal diameter bush housings would have to remain un coated (bushes being replaced by rose joints, which are narrower)... completely pointless.