Hello It's friday and I'm laying in a ditch with my 1098 due to a broken chain taking out my clutch slave and alternator cover. While waiting for my tow I've been looking at parts. Could someone recommend a good chain and sprocket set or should I buy OEM? Also, could someone tell me which clutch salve size i should get? Been looking at cnc racing and there are different version. Thought I might as well upgrade. Take care
Blimey, that’s some crack in the casing! I had a chain snap on my 1098 but it only caused a very small crack and some gouges. Chain: I used DID aftermarket Clutch Slave : I have always used standard OEM and never had a problem with them. Good luck with getting out of the ditch before it gets too cold and dark!
The carnage. From what I can see right now the block seems to be ok. The clutch is stuck. Do you guys think it's just the slave that is damaged or the rod as well? Rod is visible trough the hole. How involved is it to replace the rod?
I would expect it’s just the rod as that’s in the firing line of a flailing chain. Should be simple to remove: Remove three bolts from slave Take off slave Pull out rod Hopefully won’t be so bent that it has jammed in the case if block isn’t damaged, should be just a new alternator case. Good luck!
Thanks for the answers. So no need to remove clutch etc on the other side to remove the rod if it's not bent?
I would take a look at the clutch anyway, since it’s so simple to access. Then you can check all is good on that side of the engine too.
You say it's taken out your clutch slave, have you tried to operate clutch at lever or is it solid/stiff? This will give you the best clue as to how bad it is. GWS - if very stiff/seized then don't force it.
Thanks, i will remove clutch as well. Yes, the clutch lever is stuck. I'm in the process of disassemble on left side The slave is cracked on the back.
Alternator case isn't a pig to replace. A case puller is handy though but you can make one easily enough. I use an old handlebar mirror clamp. With the place where the mirror goes used for a bolt to do the pulling. The clamps bolts either side can be made to fit where a puller would fit. I think mine is off a gs750. Oberon do good clutch slaves.
Thanks, i already have the puller since i had an oil leak from the alternator cover which i had on my to do list. Taking my time to fix that oil leak now
Any tips on getting the bent push rod out? After removing the pressure plate the center pice is still on the rod. Any way to remove that since i don't want to force the bent rod trough the clutch side?
The centre piece at the pressure plate end should come off with a small amount of gentle persuasion. Once that is off, I would expect that the area where the pushrod is bent would be most likely at the slave cylinder end. In that case, if you cannot pull it out from that end with pliers, I would gently tap the rod through the from the basket side.
Back to your original question: just looked at my records and see I used 14t/38t Renthal sprockets and a DID 525ZVMX-108 chain.
Thanks alot for all the help Ricky. Really appreciate it. Got the end of and the rod is almost through on the salve side byt get stuck in the middle. Is it ok to tap it out or do i missing something?
Ended up just cutting the rod. It were getting stuck on the blown alternator cover. Otherwise everything is looking pretty ok I think. My clutch plates was also worn so tanks for the tip. I add those to the list
That's a bit of luck that it didn't damage the block. As many others have said alternator cover is easy enough to replace. Shame you had to cut the rod, as there is always the chance it could have been straightened, if you had managed to get it out in one piece. Might also be worth you investing in a case saver, so should in the unlikely event this were to happen again, it ought to minimize the damage.
Yep, the alternator cover i think will be no problems other than the price for a new one. Looking for options right now. The rod is the least of my problems Yes to the case saver, anyone have any recommendations? I would really like to use one which can mount up together with the stock or carbon cover and also working with the stock sprocket gearing Thank you all for taking the time to read and answer.
