This is what I use: https://www.furneauxriddall.com/col...d-battery-cable-16mm-6-awg-110-amps-per-metre Plus crimps from the same site.
Their kits are amazing. I used them for both my 916 SP3 and 998 Matrix. Quality, mounting instructions, everything is top notch!
I fully agree if you can't make them yourself. They could look a little expensive, but they have spent a lot of time on research so you can order them and know they fit. The only thing I don't like is that they are a 'Piggy-back' fit on top of the old cables because they do not include the smaller gauge cables that go out to the rest of the loom from the standard terminals. I did buy one set during lockdown, for my 1000SS, when I couldn't source any cable to make my own, and just cut the terminals off the old cables and fitted them on top of the Exact-start terminals to give me the other feeds.
True, but as far as 916 and 998 are concerned (my only experience with these kits), only earth cables have to be doubled. And adding earth is never bad. The earth solution they offer for the 998 is very smart, screwing in an unused hole in the left side of the engine case (bolt included in the kit). Very clean. The rest of the cables (battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter) you can wire in lieu of the old cables as there are no splices to other sections of the wire loom. Good riddance, really. And the quality of terminal protection from road grime (wet muck, etc.) is second to none.
Cheers for the links Nasher, that’s very useful! I need a set for the 848 which even with a new battery is very sluggish to start. I’m not a right arse by any stretch but I couldn’t see the value in £90 for 3 little length of cables . Given I have 3 Duc’s I will just buy the tool and a load of crimps/cable etc and do the lot, will work out significantly cheaper than buying 3 Exact kits. Not knocking the Exact kits in any way, but for the more DIY guys it’s a little steep IMO.
Update New leads finally arrived, they are marine grade tinned copper (for extra corrosion resistance) Complete set was £22 I decided to replace the existing leads, rather than double-up. Massive difference in starting, no issues now! Took the opportunity of refurbing the solenoid at the same time Thanks again all for your help and advice
It's worth checking the voltage that the two ignition modules are seeing. Even with a healthy battery they may only see a little over 10V as they are quite current hungry and are fed via half a dozen connections. One of the mods I did to my old SS years ago was to add a relay near the battery. I used the igntion modules +V to switch in a direct feed from the battery, with an inline fuse and nothing more. This restored the supply to the modules to Vbatt. I don't know for sure if it had an impact on ignition performance, but it never missed a beat with the mod.
Could you tell me more about the additional earth ? I made a set for my 916 but just replaced like for like ? Thanks Pat
Hello Pat, I am no electric voodoo-guru, but I understand two reasons to leave the original earth cable. The first one (which you actually find on Exact Start assembly instructions) is that it can sometimes be very challenging to disconnect the original cable from the engine case if corroded. So that’s more of a case by case situation. The second is that when you get bad earth, things go north very quickly. Some older vehicles were not earthed well enough and that’s quite a common mod to wire an additional cable (engine to chassis, usually) to prevent break downs. You see this frequently with old 60’s US muscle cars, for example. So my take on it was to piggy back the earth cable from the negative battery terminal without messing with the old one, even though there is no corrosion on my 916. Here’s a snapshot of Exact Start assembly guide.
