Hey to all, I am a newby on this forum but a long time ST lover and have been riding my ST's for a few years now, unfortunately I have had a small issues with my dashboard now which i looked into this weekend and i ended up making things worse. Scrolling the internet i found ChrisW here to be knowledged on the hardware.. so i have a few question concerning the dashboard to him (@chrisw), hey Chris.. specifically but ofcourse I am open to any ones opinion on any of these matters. The original issue was (is) that the blue light indicating the high beam is on stopped working, which i found really annoing. Initially i expected this to be an interchangeable light so I opened op the dashboard only to find it to be an SMD led, so I looked what kind to replace it at a later stage for a new one as it seemed to be an easy soldering off / on situation). I found it to be an 1210 / 3825 smd blue led, so far so good.. well I thought. After i put it all together I found that the main light of the dashboard failed.. which is also really annoying as i spend a lot of time riding in the dark, since I put it all together in my bike again.. it is quite a hassle to take it all out again, just to look where and what led i need to replace that. anyway.. I had a look at the only image of the pcb i could found (added to this post) which is fairly unclear in general, but i tried to mark the (possible) leds i found on the pcb. Blue circle = is ofcourse the 6 indicator lights. Red circle = i assume to be red leds for the dial hand (am i right) Yellow circle = the annoying blinking orange led on the dial. Green circles = i guess the illuminating leds / lights. But are the leds on the pcb, or are these just diffuser pieces of plastic and with leds under the pcb?? and if this is true.. why would they both stop functioning at the same time? and what is those's E's printed on there? what is the type / dimensions of these leds? Can anyone assure me of some of these assumptions? and if wrong what/where is/are the main illuminatiing leds to light the display. Additionally i had an issue taking the dial plate of the pcb as i couldn' get the hand of the rev dial to come off, which makes soldering on the pcb a lot more annoying, this struggle could very well be the cause of the main illumination to have failed. So i also have a question on how to do this properly. Any thoughts on this would be very appreciated. Kind greats Matthieu
It's almost certainly circuitry problems causing your bulbs to stop working rather than the bulbs themselves failing Matthieu, one of my 1000DS bikes has both indicator and night-time illumination lights out, and they occurred at the same time, and this is reported on Forums many times. Damp and/or corrosion are the main culprits, I don't know if you came across either of these during dismantling. Soldered connections that look grey and matt rather than silver and shiny, or even hints of green/algae deposits.
Hi Matthieu, Misschien kunnen deze mensen je helpen, (Maybe these guys can help you out) www.carmo.nl
Hey @NineNineSix, Thanks! but no thanks!!!! I had to deaal with these F#$^&ing asses before, the advertise nicely but they are nothing but a couple of fraudes.. and i do not use this term lightly, not lightly at all! I am not an aggresive person at all, but these guys tend to draw every bit of aggresion i have out of me. They are personally responsible for messing up my previous ST4. After completely "examining" my ecu and promising nice detailed papers on the exam they gave it back charged me 100+ bucks, promising they ECU was fine, without any failure! On the otherhand, The ECU was NEVER even opened up (obvious traces should've have been visible, it's not like screwing it open) . No papers were delivered, excuse they gave is that I didn't ask for it upfront.. (it is part of the service, i shouldn't have needed to ask for it) and they weren't able to be able to supply afterwards. In hind sight, the ECU had failed, it was just a minor failure that any competent electronics enginear should have catched on first glance (i did, and i have only hobby experience). After i confronted them they denied everything, and refused communication after one phonecall, how much more guilty behaviour an you show! So no... Carmo.nl can not help me.
At Chris, Yeah this likely, but this didn't happen at the same time and both have fairly explainable seperate causes, a led can fail without any additional "cause" being necessairy, and me opening it up is likely to have damaged the night time illumination. Never the less I have seen damp in the dashboard in the past.. Never the les, when I can open it up completely i will indeed check all the soldering.. clean the surface, give it an IPA bath and replace the broken leds, and give it a coating.. but to do this, i need to be able to open it up properly first.. as this bike is my main means of transport.. i need to be properly informed first, as far as possible.. I can't be without transport just because of some failing leds. Kind greats.. Matthieu.
Hi Matthieu Of course you can't rule out bulbs themselves failing, but the odds are against this in most cases from reading up over the years. I haven't even looked into it, but i'm assuming that there is no easy way to test each bulb while it's in situ. I wish you luck in fixing yours, after many hours of searching and reading up I waved the white flag and bought another set. Hopefully Chris W. will comment on this at some point. Regards Chris
Hey Chris actually it is very simple to test the leds in situ, basically every multimeter has a diode setting that one can use to test diodes.. and since are diodes.. they will work with this fuction and direct (correct polarized) contact of te leads. As I suddenly had a long weekend (good timing) I took the dash apart again and had a good look at the stepper motor driving the tachometer and found the confirmataion dial hand just had a press on fitting on the axis.. (which i assumed) but it was soooooo damn tight that i just didn't have the balls previously to try to pull it off completely as it really needed a massive amount of force. After i got it off I gave it a good scrutinisation under the microscope and found the blue led was 1) still functional and 2) the common lead from the leds voltage regulator was broken due to corrosion. So after cleaning it all up I replaced the lead and it fucntioned again, secondly I needed to address the background light, which I discovered to be not a LED, but a foil covering the dial with conductive leads to the pcb attached by a clamp. Somewhere during last time disassembly attempt this clamp must've been detached, loosing its connection after reconnecting this and checking the rest of the PCB, I connected it to the wire trea and found both the blue led and background lighting to be functional again. So half a days work, but I believe it to be well worth it. It's dark now and wet, so i will place it all back tomorrow. Anways, thank for all info and advice. Matthieu
Hey Chris Sorry, didn't take any pics, I should've but i didn't. Never the less. I am very willing to help you out where ever I can on this issue. Reading through your post.. and seeing the damage on my dash, I have quite a preemptive idea what to look for and how to solve. If you have it at hand... post some DETAILED / high res pics of the bottom row if indiating lights including all there voltage regulators. kind greatz. Matthieu ps: i have no idea how to send a PM here, but if you send me one, i will send you my mobilenr for whatsapp (only if interested ofcourse).
Worth having a look at this thread I posted: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/instrument-repairs.80444/ Some of the Warning lamp LEDs didn't work, and when investigated I found their ballast resistors had fallen off the PCB Slightly more relevant is that I chickened out and sent the cluster to a specialist for repair because I couldn't get the needles off the spindles to get the PCB out of the housing. They sent them back as they were unable to get the needles off. So I did what I should have done in the first place and found a way to do it myself with keyhole surgery.
That's the problem with being old! - answering your question Simon, has had me in "pause and reflect" mode, and i've just purged a distant memory where needle removal pulled the guts out of an instrument complete with spindle! - we all tend to think:- "well it went on there!" but it doesn't mean it's like a serviceable item, and damage as a result cannot be ruled out.
I know how that feels Chris. Looking at the damage on that particular PCB I'd be tempted to get in there with a magnifying glass and soldering iron to add some bridging wires in place of the tracks. It's my belief that the PCB's are only two sided, not multi-layer with tracks embedded on different layers in the middle, so with a little care it would be possible.
above pictures are deceptive though, as tracks are approx 20 to 30 thou wide, but worse then this is gap between each track which is about the same. I don't have equipment capable of achieving above - have you? - on clean-up with toothbrush, they appear to be intact so i'm hoping problems are "over the page" like Matthieu's.
I'm lucky enough to have a really helpful bunch of class 1 soldering operatives at work who would stand behind me whilst I have a go in our Dev Lab. Then probably take over after watching my ham-fisted attempts. If you are stuck let me know.
Hello Chris, Yeah that corner is ofcourse oxidised. but that doesn't mean the leads are non functional. if still functional there are other means to revive them. If these are this issue then it will keep you from pulling the needle of, which i would avoid if you can. I had a tip a few years ago from someone that really helped me out in situations like this (cleaning the pcb) that really works wonders. You need to get you hand on two following items: 1) 99% IPA (no not the beer) IPA = Iso Propyl Alcohol, you can buy this online but an real pharmacist will have it too. 2) more basic but the real trick is to get you hand on a (cheap) porkbristled kids paintbrush. I use one that is like 1 cm / 1/2" wide and flat. but any other size would be oke to i guess, but it needs to be pork, so the rough whitish hairs If you have kids around I guess you will have these by the 100's if not a shop like the action will help you out there. When you have it, the trick is to take a real sharp (razor)blade and cut the hairs of in one straight line like 4-5 mm long. when you have done so, take the IPA and wet the bristtles.. and use that to scratch off the oxidisation. The oxides are soft, and you will wipe it away but the remaining leads will stay at there place, if not, the would have been lost anyways as they have loosened from the pcb. If the leads aren't completely broken you can lay a tiny layer of solder (silver not lead) on the leads to thicken it, if broken replace the leads with a very thin wire. 30 - 32 awg would be oke. you can get the at an electrical component store. Best is to choose silicon wire if you are not very experienced with soldering, this is easier as the isolation will not melt, and also usually preper quality wires and not more expensive. Additional.. make sure you have a small soldering iron, but specially a small tip on the iron, this is essential! if you don't have one.. I have another tip.. it will take a while, but it will be worth the wait... get yourself a ts100 or 101 soldering station (or similar model). it is super small, but with smart opensource software and very powerfull with the right powersupply. I have an original hakko soldering station much more expensive but this one is my go to specially for smaller stuff. This will set you down like 70 - 90 euro's via amazon or aliexpress. I would advice to get one with a variaty of tips. I hope this will help you.. And ofcourse get yourself a propper way of magnification while soldering. I use a EXTRA pair of reading glasses.. my usual 1.5x and add a second 2.5x to it.. looks silly but is very functional. the pcb is indead "just" a two layer pcb, so no issues with leads in the board. I will need to go to work in a minute.. but i can reply later this evening. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005...00030655867703!sea&curPageLogUid=IC6DBXOc58QQ
Thank you Matthieu, I’m going to read your reply in a minute, meanwhile, I have found it, ^ even without removing taco needle, also earth clamp is intact I was disappointed to find.
yeah that is indead A source of problems.. make sure to check all out. I added a link for the soldering station to the former post, the advised tip to use is the bc2. and if you go for another source of purchase. DON'T get tempted to go for a small lass powerfull powersupply as it would be a waist of money. if you have one alread lying around, just use that. as lon as it is 12 or 24v and enough amp to reach 65w. you should have a good understanding of the wa the leads go before attempting to repair and always back up with fotographs for yourself.
as i said, get ourself proper magnification.. the cheap but functional solution of two stacked reading glasses (10E from any drugstore) had proven very functional too me. when doing so it's just like solde
I have one, a station with clamps, lighting, magnification etc, it's the other factors I can't improve as have been heavily hinting at! - but will swot up now. "and always back up with fotographs for yourself." Thanks again for trying to help.
