Securing Panigale To Trailer

Discussion in 'Clothing, Gadgets & Equipment' started by ibgarrow, Feb 3, 2023.

  1. Advice, please.
    I have to transport my Panigale R to a dealer in the coming months. It probably needs a new water pump, as it’s lost coolant over winter both last year and the one just gone.
    I have a bike trailer to shift it, but am seeking advice on tying it down
    I already have a wheel strap thing (see image) and some ratchet straps, but am wondering what to do about the front, as I believe it’s bad practice to compress the forks with ratchet straps on the headstock/handlebars?

    1CF12638-94BB-419E-8CE9-D61252D6194E.jpeg
     
  2. Don't know what the front of your trailer is like but I have an ordinary commercial one with a wheel chock bolted to the bed. Once the front wheel is in the chock I put a strap around it and that's held the front fine. That along with straps at the back and foot pegs. I've also never had problems any time a bike has been strapped down in a way that the suspension has been compressed but that's mainly on ferries.
     
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  3. Loads of bikes have suspension compressed for quite a while, think of all those bikes in stillages making their way to Spain and back.

    I wouldn't worry.
     
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  4. Thanks. I’ll look at the foot pegs as another securing point.
    My bike trailer (see below) hasn’t a chock per se at the front. Perhaps I might butcher one and mount it in the channel.
    3777FC1A-B2CB-4E24-A884-1E26BF007C7E.jpeg
     
  5. As per Creamy post. I tie mine via handlebar straps. Never had a problem. Don’t ratchet the front down too much though.
     
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  6. Serendipity. I’ve just ordered a set.
    Yes, I don’t want to arrive at the dealer’s to find I need replacement fork seals to add to the bill for annual service, MoT and water pump replacement.
     
  7. Make sure the straps don’t rub the fairings. Shouldn’t be an issue I the front tie down points are wide apart enough.
     
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  8. They don't seem to exist .....
     
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  9. They do in my van :)

    if not, plenty of microfibre towels between strap and fairings.
     
  10. I use one of those handlebar muff things. They slip over the bar ends and then are used to pull the front down via ratchet straps.
    But, as said, not too much, just enough.
     
    #10 RickyX, Feb 3, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2023
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  11. I think you've got a bit of an issue with that trailer. I don't think I'd use it.
     
  12. ?
     
  13. You don't have any wide points at the front to tie the handle bars down.

    If you use the areas behind you'll be pulling the bike out of the chock, you should be pulling into it if anything.

    Screenshot_2023-02-04-08-48-29-35_260528048de7f2f358f0056f785be619.jpg

    Does it have a weight limit on the trailer anywhere? The channel looks really narrow for a 200 section rear tyre as well.

    (Sorry, not trying to be that guy)
     
    #14 Cream_Revenge, Feb 4, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2023
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  14. Do you have a long metal bar to slide through here?

    Screenshot_2023-02-04-08-50-03-31_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
     
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  15. I helped someone load up at a trackday who just rolled the bike on top of the channel. Trailer was for Mx width. Still they got it there like that as well, hadn't really occured that it should be "in" the channel.
     
  16. Nil plating on the trailer.
    I’ll look at welding on a crossmember like you suggest-to put the straps on the correct vector. Thanks
     
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  17. Been desperately trying to find a photograph of my tie-down method without success. FWIW, what I learned from strapping a track bike into a transit stillage, I exclusively use cam buckle straps to tie the front wheel to the “chock” (your front bit of channel) and the rider’s footpeg hanger to the closest cross member under the main channel. To compress the front and rear suspension, you strap from the two footpeg hangers first before pulling down, then stand on the footpeg pulling down either side a bit at a time. What you are looking for is sufficient compression that the bike doesn’t bounce and slacken the straps. I always add a second ‘safety’ strap as a precaution. This has worked for my Multistradas, my Panigale V4, the Scrambler, the Monster and in days gone by, my 1098R and the Diavel. Andy
     
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  18. Definitely pull down on the foot pegs. For the front I compress via the lower fork yolk, both sides. And with this set up you have it won’t do any harm lightly squeezing your front brake on with an elastic band. Personally I don’t like compressing the front via bar ends. I think there’s more strength and rigidity from the lower yoke.
     
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  19. Finally. I acquired a piece of 30mm square tube and slid it through the short front tube. This will give me something to pull against. I just need to have some loops welded on.
    You’re right-the channel is to narrow for the Panigale rear. I’m assessing whether to simply bend out the channel at the rear, or remove it and fit a flat platform.
     
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