Billy, Yes that is my understanding, I could have recalculated a lower torque. Torque = Force x Distance. You have the torque, measure your torque wrench and then find the force. Then re-arrange the formula with the new length and force to get the new torque figure. In your other comments, I have a selection of de-pinning tools but unfortunately in this instance it can't be done, the connector is put in backwards and you would have to cut the wire. Yes I pressuries before releasing bleed nipple, thanks for comments. Cheers Gaz
Now you mention it the connectors I depinned on my SS, were to enable me to install a diode between the neutral switch and the prop stand switch to enable engine running with prop stand down, but only in neutral, the pins came out the back of the connectors. The switch on the prop stand provides an earth to the ECU when it’s in the raised position. With the stand down this earth connection is broken, hence no ECU function. The diode only allows an earth to flow from the neutral switch to the prop stand and not in the reverse direction otherwise the neutral light would be permanently illuminated when the prop stand is raised.
Chain. Got a 520 vx3 GB a bit a go. Installed this morning, with a DID chain riveter cheaper copy which performed well. Could not see the flare diameter for this chain on the DID instruction but found it elsewhere and it was the same as others 5.5 - 5.8. So I did the riveting, diameters were about 5.65 - 5.7 so I patted myself on the back. On closer inspection I could see the seal popping outside the side plates. I measured the distance over the side plates of a standard link, which was about 16.70 - 16.75. The distance over rivet link was 16.35. I guess that explains it. Not sure if this info is in the DID instruction, I only looked for the flare diameter then cracked on. I will see how it settles in, but will probably get another link and flare it to the minimum and check dimension across side plates as I go. Cheers Gaz
I fitted exactly the same chain to my SS. I think my rivet kit is a Sealey one. I measured the width of the chain over the outer plates and made sure when pressing on the outer plate of the rivet link that I didn’t press it on to far. You shouldn’t need to check the flair diameter because the mandrel used to form the flair on the end of the rivet should exhibit a dramatic increase in force required when the process is finished. Have a look at this video. The fitting of the rivet link starts from about 30 minutes in and the flairing of the rivet is around the 38 minute mark. My rivet kit is the same as the one used in the video. From what you say it looks as though you might have pressed the outer plate on a fraz too far so just need to keep an eye on it and the X rings. If push comes to shove it’s not a big deal to replace the rivet link.
Billy, thanks. I've had a look at your and a couple of other videos. First I agree I think I've pressed it on too far. The tool on your video was slightly different to mine but looks like it operates in a similar way. But, I was surprised he said put the tool with the channel at the back and the holes at the front. The DID tool has the holes at the back in the 'C' piece and the channel at front in the loose piece. Possibley I presumed wrongly the tool would stop at the correct depth when pressing the plate on. On the OEM DID tool it might but on a copy it my not do. I did notice on a video the flare again did stop at correct point but copy may be slightly off. I've ordered another and think I will replace. Cheers Gaz
If you think about what you are trying to achieve. The outer plate that you are fitting is an interference fit on the pins. So you’re anvil at the back needs to only touch the pins, not the plate, and the press at the front needs to touch only the plate, and not the pins. As for replacing it, by all means get a spare rivet link but I wouldn’t be in a rush to fit it. I would just keep an eye on your X rings. You will be adjusting the chain after getting the initial stretch over and done with and at that time you will be able to tell if the X rings are still good and whether the rivet link is overly stiff.
last bit a priority for me ^ is the link stiff? so the "O" ring sealing system doesn't work on 2 pins, not the end of the world.
Right hand silencer not a great fit into header, rattles a bit and a but blowy. Any problem with this or should I stop being lazy and fix it. Cheers Gaz
Thanks Jon. I have an original set which are a bit rough, a middle set which are on and nearly new set. I might see if any are a better fit when I am all sorted. Cheers Gaz.
In the past I have used a round of the appropriate size ptfe stem packing pushed carefully into the female side to reduce the free movement, but honestly, in the end, it makes no difference to performance or use.
Thanks, I did think of that but was holding off, it seems a bit messy and don't think it originally had any. Got another silencer to fit a bit better, so I will see how that goes thanks again Cheers Gaz
This can cause backfires on the overrun, if you do use paste only use a tiny amount! (otherwise a right bitch to disassemble).
Royal, Thanks, will look out for the backfire, I had it running on the weekend, I think Iam close the OK carb set-up (balance was good with the gauges, will double check air/fuel) but not quite sure. I think I did have a couple of backfire from that side warming up but them did not notice anything later when warmed up. I have put another silencer on with an better fit (can't see why) so will check again this weekend. Cheers Gaz
I’ve never found link pipe air leaks to cause a backfire. For a backfire, the air needs to be introduced a lot closer to the combustion area where the flame front is still active to ignite the unburned fuel with the introduced O2 in the leaked air, so almost invariably a leak at the header, not the link pipe.
Sorry poor vocab on my behalf, I meant popping in the exhaust as opposed to backfire up through the airbox.
