Hey guys I was hoping for some advice. I have an 899 with 9.5k mileage which has on trickle charge over winter. Started every 6 weeks or so and had no problems until Sunday. Started first time and it was running fine, so I left it for 2 minutes to go back into the house, on return I heard a loud pop as I approached the garage. It was clear the bike was running on one cylinder and the pops were fuel in the termis. I turned the bike off and because I'm fairly competent I did some checks myself. So far Ive: * Read the fault codes using MelcoDiag - No issues other than the Exhaust valve that's removed because of the termi cans that I've fitted. * Removed the Rapid Bike Evo module and have the bypass it fitted that puts it back to stock (tried and tested so I know that works) * I do have Super unleaded petrol and there is plenty of it in the tank - No air locks * I've isolated it to the Vertical cylinder by removing the HT lead - It starts and then stops after a few seconds with the Vertical lead removed, but wont start at all with the horizontal HT removed. * I've removed the plug and I have a spark - It looks pretty black and damp so I've ordered a new one but its yet to arrive. * I've swapped the coil packs over (but the issue remains on the vertical cylinder) * I have compression as I can feel the air when I put my hand over the spark plug hole. * I have put an endoscope camera down the spark plug and I see no metal or anything nasty other than carbon build up on the face of the cylinder. * I've swapped the vertical and horizontal MAP sensors around in case they are causing an issue but again, it is still the vertical cylinder that prevents it starting (removing the HT lead again) * I must have fuel as its popping and banging but perhaps it's a clogged injector.... * Fuel pump primes when the ingition is on. (it did have a replacement fuel pump by the previous owner when I bought it a few years ago) I'm supplying 12 volts to the battery from an CTEK MXS 10 (10AMP) battery charger (on supply mode) to ensure there is a enough voltage. Currently it starts on one cylinder (from the sounds of it) then stops after a few seconds... I'm now at a total loss for ideas... I'm currently leaving the battery disconnected overnight and the spark plug out to dry the cylinder out.... Any other ideas?
I note that you have a spark on vertical cylinder, but while you wait for the new one, have you tried swapping spark plugs just to rule this out?
Thanks for reading Chris and for your advice. I had thought about that option but from what I've read online, the coolant has to be drained and the lower radiator removed along with the fan housing. Some estimate 2 or 3 hours of work to get to the lower plug.... I'm also going to check it's not a battery fault and run the bike from the car battery temporarily... After that, I think the next option is to check the throttle bodies are operating (which are under the tank) with an endoscope camera.
I should have guessed, sorry. rad much closer to rocker cover on yours. Will watch thread to see what happens with a fresh plug for starters.
Hi, I had the same issue some time ago. In the end it turned out to be black plugs, due to too little use of the bike in winter (and in general). I had changed the battery BTW, to no avail.
Thanks Gazdoc! I just managed to get it going now (!!). Jumped it off the car battery and it was running.... BUT. It dropped to one cylinder when it got about 60C on the water temperature and the pops/banks returned. I can see the battery on the dash is at 14v when its ticking over, so the alternator is working fine. I have a spare coil pack and HT lead already. Spark plug is on its way. I think Ill replace them all. I'm skeptical of the lithium battery that's installed. The MXS10 charger has a supply option but I dont think the wires would deliver enough AMPs ?! The Lithium battery showed was fully charged overnight (13.29V), but as soon as I turned the bike over it started for about 2 seconds then stopped and the dash cut out, so I'm thinking it might not be as healthy as it could be. I may well just replace that as well. I just want a reliable bike for the spring
I didn't think it was good practise to run idle... even if allowed to get hot. Moisture build up and "relatively" poor idle mixture will clog it all up. E.g. carbon on plugs and cyclinders. It probably needs a 'reet good thrashing rather than a 6 week idle.
Thanks Serjames - I never know if its best to leave it over winter untouched, or, start occasionally and let it get up to 100C when the fans kick in then shut it down.... Ill be sure to perform an 'itanian tune up' when its running again
My 1098 is grumpy after being left for a few weeks, even after being on an optimiser. Starts OK (thanks to Exact cables) in winter, but chuggy as fook until I get it out and go for a 20-30 min ride. I have to be careful to choose the right day to do it (i.e. avoiding rain and salty roads). I never leave my bikes on idle to warm them up and then put them away. I was always told it will run rich (not good for plugs) as it's effectively 'on choke' and will also create a load of condensation. My guess is your plug is cacked up and a new one followed by a good run might well do the job. Keep us posted.
Thanks guys. Appreciate it. I think the lesson here is to not run it on idle during winter! I won't be doing that again next time around. I'll replace the plug and lead then report back.
I dont know if this is any use or relevant but quite a few years ago I owned a Ducati 748 and being as im a lazy sod instead of walking the 400 meters from my barrack block to my place of work in a morning I used to take my bike. After a while it started spluttering and popping and banging and was not at all happy, I found that the horizontal cylinder spark plug was fouled and was wet with fuel, changed the plug and all was well again......well until my bone idleness returned a few weeks later and I started using it for my 400 metre commute again. Cost me a fortune in spark plugs that bike did. To be fair everyone else who had a motorbike used to do the same but they had reliable Japanese bikes not a stroppy Italian one like me.
Thanks Bicster appreciate sharing that, it's useful. The replacement plug is due tomorrow so I'll be sure to put it in and I hope it'll run fine again.
my two penneth i put a new battery in my 600 (honda) it looked the same as the one as i took out, but was actually for a two stroke all lights came on, turned over but wouldn't fire, had me scratching for days, i mean new battery right? wrong, apparently it didnt have quite enough wallop to get the ECU working properly i am slightly skeptical on battery optimisers, some say they are good, some say they can damage battery??
OK, Status update and GOOD news! I finally (!) got the replacement plug from Opie Oils (NGK MAR9A-J). Fitted the plug along with a 2nd hand HT lead and Coil pack from a v2 (same part numbers as the 899). Ignition on. Starter button pressed and she fired up and sounded sweeter than ever. Ran up to 102C when the fans kicked in and no problems with misfires etc. I think the plugs must be the originals, it was serviced by Ducati before I purchased it at 7500 miles but it looks like the original plug (plugs get replaced at 15k miles I believe). I also tried the battery tester and it shows the voltage didnt drop below 8.66v when cranking, so I think Ill leave the lithium battery as is for now. Appreciate everyone's input and interest! It's got new rubber, so I just need the sunny weather now!
Oh and PS, I measured the gap on the new and old plugs - about 0.95mm on the old plug, 0.7mm on the new ones. So that could have been a contributing factor as well.
