I took the clutch cover off to take a look, and I found this, I've uploaded a few seconds of video: I'm wondering if I just need to buy a new clutch pack. Any suggestions welcome.
Pretty much, including the steel basket. OE replacement won’t be cheap but IMO, definitely the way to go. The later Ducati and after market aluminium basket clutches have a much shorter life. Andy
I’m sure you could flog it on for a bit but in reality it will likely start misbehaving in a short while.
It’s going to snetterton in a couple weeks. Wondering wether to bite the bullet on a new slipper clutch setup before then.
Can’t go wrong with a classic STM 48t 6 post slipper from Omniaracing/WRS. https://www.omniaracing.net/en/dry-...iginal-with-discs-for-ducati-748-p-27296.html https://www.wrs.it/en/slipper-clutc...6-springs-stm-ducati-monster-750-800-900.html
controversial and might get to eat my words but as long as you have no other new clutch action symptoms I would be happy to use that on your trackday but it ought to be it's Swansong maybe. I know owners who have carried on riding with far worse basket and plate burrs and clearance than that. With clutch like that I found I struck up far more conversations when filling up with fuel.
If I hadn’t spent money on magnesium wheels recently I think that clutch would be worth more than my bike I’d like some cheaper options if possible. (Looking at oem a new basket and a set of plates is about £400).
Lord how many times do peeps mention that there is something wrong with your bike at a fuel stop. It’s the reason I bought a MV Augusta……that and the superior styling and finish.
To be honest, with the prospect of a new clutch and also having to get refaced rocker arms, I might just buy a 999 engine and throw that in Seriously though I think I’m gonna wait till after my next trackday and decide if it’s worth throwing any more money at it.
For reference, I’ve just ordered and EVR 48 tooth full clutch for my 1098 via MotoRapido. Around the £1100 mark. Not sure on compatibility but my old clutch will be for sale.
Well it's knackered now. I accidentally snapped off one of the basket's spring posts, reassembling the pack after a teardown and inspection. Anyway. I took the spring and cup off the post opposite, now I have a 4 spring setup, and I test rode it because on the driveway it seemed ok. I didn't detect any slipping, and tbf the action feels actually nicer, go figure. I'm not sure it will hold up at Snetterton next Sunday, so I'm currently looking around for a new clutch basket (probably will go for a complete slipper setup, but getting one before the weekend is going to be very unlikely).
If one of the posts is snapped off the drum will no longer be balanced. It may vibrate as a result - it may not, depends on how critical the weight is. I would guess that the clutch will still work with 4 springs as we know that a few people do this mod.
The bit of post which is broken off is a couple grams probably. I took the spring off the opposite side to reduce as much as possible any imbalance. Seems like it’s ok at 11k rpm not that I’d expect to feel much anyway. I’m more worried there won’t be enough pressure on the clutch as that’s on its service limit too.
I purchased a 900 Monster, previous owner removed one spring he wanted a lighter lever pull. I found it slipped too much in 5/6th if you gave it the gun so replaced it, I could not sense any imbalance but then the 900ss is a tractor compared to the later water cooled iterations.
I think the “needs must” rule applies here. No time / budget to replace with OE, especially in a short Easter week No time to buy / install / set up a slipper (they generally need a bit of try / adjust / try etc. to get the right amount of reverse torque / slip and feel you need) The clutch is pretty much bin fodder anyway, so I think I would see it out in style Limited use of an imbalanced clutch is unlikely to kill the input shaft bearing unless it was already shot (primary drive ratio on a 748 is 2:1 IIRC so at 11k revs the clutch is “only” spinning at 5.5k) Do you have a few spare drive plates of the various thicknesses? You can play tunes with the stack height to help the bite and avoid slip with a 4 spring (I would go to max and check you can disengage clutch, even if neutral gets a bit clonky or disappears when stationary)
