Help!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Twinlover, Apr 16, 2023.

  1. The unthinkable has happened…

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    Whilst attempting removal of the gear position sensor, it has snapped off.

    Has anyone on here had to deal with this? If so, what tools were used, how difficult was it, how was it done? Any and all help and tips greatly appreciated…OR should I leave it to the professionals?
     
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  2. Sheeet. Buy a set like these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314138970787?hash=item4924244aa3:g:2HIAAOSwpq9jGhlS. If it doesn’t leak with engine running get it nice and hot otherwise heat with hot air gun. Hopefully one of them will be the right size to grip straight of the bat. Obviously access is tight . Can’t see whether there is enough depth for it to get some bite. If there isn’t might have to take the engine out. Shheeet. Good luck.
     
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  3. My thinking is that with the switch broken off like that, the threaded part remaining should unscrew 'easily' as it's no longer under the tightening load. Swingarm out, exhaust off to give clear access to it perhaps :thinkingface:
    Also - WTF! This is not a part that needs to be tightened very much - the O-ring's doing the sealing job! Good luck.
     
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  4. I haven’t started it since, as the spring and plunger came away with the broken piece, so there’s an obvious hole in there.

    There is however a depth of about 10mm, so hopefully enough to bite, fingers crossed.
     
  5. That was my thinking too, hopefully.

    Will head down to the local engineering shop tomorrow, with the broken part, to see what they have got to fit inside it.
     
  6. agree, and from pic it looks as though both aluminium thread and what's left of component are "clean" so should hopefully "tickle" out. Obviously see what people come up with, but be aware of any "removal device"* that imparts too high a radial force, particularly on such a thin-walled remainder, as it just adds friction/adds to the problem, it's that delay between winding it in*, and when it starts to move. Hard to say remotely, but would even go through all straight blade screwdrivers to find a good fit (if access even possible) or even a modified old hack-saw blade to see if remainder is happy to rotate fairly easily.
     
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  7. Having read the posts above, I felt the inspiration to have a go tonight. I found that a large flat screwdriver fitted snugly inside the broken part that had been removed, but did not grip it very well and it was also too long as direct line access was not possible.

    So, I took the large screwdriver, sharpened the edges of it for grip and cut it off the handle. Then I cut a slot in the cut end that allowed a smaller screwdriver to fit and used electrical tape to hold the junction together and allow it to flex without coming apart.

    Guess what? First go…

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  8. God I love a happy ending, almost as much as you do!
     
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  9. There’s nothing like a happy ending;):p:astonished::sweat::upyeah:

    I was starting to see pound signs in the bill with multiple digits coming after them… phew!
     
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  10. *phew* glad you sorted it.

    Just for general knowledge, I've never had success with screw extractors and when they snap, you are totally screwed. I use left hand drill bits, starting small and increasing in size. As they drill through the metal, it relieves the pressure and often the remainder will come out as a thin shell before it's all the way through, so no need to drill/tap or helicoil. Obviously requires a drill that can spin counter-clockwise
     
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