1997 M900 New Fuel filter New spark plugs NGK 8eix (iridium) New choke cable Took her out for a 80km ride, after roughly 60km she only started working on 1 cylinder, took out the plugs , front is fine(as in photo) , top plug stinks of fuel , cleaned , she's on two cylinders again 80km she used most of the full tank Any ideas , iridium ? I had NGK dcpr8e
The float level is super easy to check. Get a bit of clear silicone tube that you can fit to the drain. Point it down into a container. Open the drain a good amount and once the inevitable air bubble has been pushed down, pinch the tube near-ish to the drain, direct it around and up the side of the carb, the. Stop pinching it. The level should be half way up the little protrusion on the side of the carbs, but you are more interested in whether they match. See the below: http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2016/03/setting-float-level-on-mikuni-bdst38.html?m=1 You can absolutely get the floats apart on the bike provided your screws aren't seized. Just lower the oil cooler. I replaced all screws with cap heads when I rebuilt mine and have since had the floats off about 400 times, without taking the carbs off. You can also get the needles out in situ. I was recently advised to stay away from iridium. Apparently the coils just aren't up to the task.
Yes indeed ! Been there , done that , so many times ...... but that's all in the past now for me , thankfully ..... In terms of the physics alone , I can't think of any sensible reason why iridium plugs would be harder on the coils . We're really only talking about two electrical conductors , with an air/fuel gap between them . They may well squeeze a little bit more power from a modern high performance engine , but on a carb engine , I just would not spend the extra money on them . Note - I do not waste money on iridium fingers either .....
