Oberon Slave Cylinder

I think the Oberon slave makes the clutch something like 25% lighter. I have problems with damaged tendons in my left hand and now do clutchless up and down changes. It's not difficult. For upshifts momentarily close the throttle while you make the change. Downshifts require a little more finesse, momentarily open the throttle a tiny bit as you make the shift. At the neutral point between the gears the revs will rise making the gears more mesh easily. Timing is critical but it comes quickly with practice. Try giving it a go.

 

Takes me back Derek. A skill that many do not know about in the days of blippers and quickshifters. All it takes is an educated wrist. Granted not as slick as the modern version but more satisfying. We also used to change gears in cars with no clutch, just for fun. A useful skill for both car and bike if clutch cable ever snaps.

 

You could also remove 2 clutch springs... it's unlikely the clutch will slip (though it may)

 

I use them on all my bikes and they make quite a bit if difference, worth the change.

 

You can go another route. Measure the thickness of the wire in your standard springs. Deduct a 20 to 25% and go to a local shop and ask them to make a set of springs with 20 to 25% thinner wire, whatever they have available close to those figures. You will get the same result, without losing the travel that you will, if you use an aftermarket slave. Back then it cost me about €20.
I hope this may be of help.

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention that you have to retain the same length and the same number of spirals.

 

slightly laborious, and of course why would you trust me? But you need to try and determine the diameter of your current clutch slave cylinder and compare this with the Oberon clutch slave diameter as generalising here, some later original equipment slaves are just as light as the Oberon aftermarket one. The clutch spring variation is another route, as mentioned, and there's yet another option that I can share in an email possibly.

 

Intriguing... You can't share on here?

 

This table posted by Shazaam in 2009 gives you an idea. It doesn't include Oberon which probably weren't available or at least common in the US then, but by comparison the Oberon slave must be around 28.5-29mm.

 

Ive a 16x18 (thanks Andy) and an Oberon on a 1299. The pull is about the same as oem, but the reach is shorter and it 'feels' easier in traffic to me. It also engages/disengages quicker I feel.

 

Got an Oberon on my Hyper 1100 - yeah - smoother and a tad lighter, but i have got an uber posh master cylinder..!

 

Try as The Royal M suggests by removing 2 clutch springs, I ran my M/S for many years without any clutch slip.

 

I have fitted an Oberon on my 899, massive difference in clutch feel and performance. well worth doing. Also must praise customer service really really good.

 

I was given an Oberon to fit on my 01 900SS. No matter how meticulously I bled the system it still proved troublesome selecting neutral from first whilst stationary. Having spoken to Oberon I found that the slave cylinder has a marginally shorter throw than the OE one.

So I reverted to the solution I have used for the last ten years. Remove two of the springs. This gave no problem on a long weekend trip, two up with all our gear to Luxembourg and back. Keep the spring caps in place and their absence is hardly noticeable.

 

Lever reach is a major factor in heavy clutches that is often overlooked. A good cranked fully adjustable aftermarket lever such as Pazzo make a big difference. If the reach is too long, even a light clutch action will cause hand and wrist strain.
Oberon slaves are worth having though. The company are great to deal with, their slaves are simple, robust and very easy to bleed. But if you want a lighter pull than OE, you need a bigger piston.

 

hi

fitted oner of these to my 899, theres a clunk now when going into first, unless lever pulled hard on to the bar, all the rest is sweet, am i missing something?

 

hard to diagnose remotely, but it doesn't sound right, as no combination of piston sizes at slave and master should result in the handlever needing to touch the bar before clutch is disengaged. can only suggest that it's possibly two things. The system needs further bleeding, plus with the Oberon, the travel at the hand lever will be slightly more than the one you replaced, which isn't helping combined with the above scenario.

 

Couldn’t wish for a more helpful company but having been told that, for my machine, their product has a tad less throw than the OE one I reverted to OE. I guess my clutch pack is not quite running as true as it should because a very small amount of clutch drag made selecting neutral at a standstill a pain. Even using only four springs as noted above.