Update 21/06/2023 - Fault was short in Rectifier causing no spark Been 4 weeks since last ride/start. Tank full with premium. Battery 2 months old, fully charged. No issues on last ride - started on the button This is what it does - probably the 4th attempt: https://youtube.com/shorts/55inc8IhStU?feature=share Turns over but won't fire up. I've had the front plug out - looked all good , cleaned anyway. No error codes. Any ideas? Spark Plug Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/Wt-qb9gZjbk Edit: 14/06 New crank position sensor fitted and still the same problem. Bike is fitted with uprated exact start cables Uprated Yuasa YTX14H-BS fitted 2 months ago Findings and things tried on recommendation: No Spark on either plugs Compression and Cranking Good Fuel, fuel pump Good - fuel getting to the plugs ECU changed with spare one and ECU earth wire checked. 12 V getting to Plugs No error Code German Ducati Forum thinks its the Crank Position Sensor (I have taken it out - this threw up a error code straight away and cleaned it + cleaned the spacer - put it back in - made no difference. ( Reluctant to change it if it is not throwing up an error code with it connected) Oil pressure light does not come on with ignition
That normally makes a loud click/metal bang during cranking - at least that's what it did when the sprag clutch on my RSV went. pump primes but will check/swap the relays now.
My sprag never clunked and sounded exactly like his youtube. However, best to check above too. If sprag, replace sprag, flange and flywheel. I did mine 5 or 6yrs ago at £362 inc vat for parts from snells. Job jobbed in about 2hrs. Tools needed? Threebond and a flywheel holding tool, case puller tool. Buy some strong threadlock too for flywheel.
Simple stuff- can you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on? These relays are notoriously shite… Oops, just read your pump prime bit… soz
Changed relays - some surface corrosion on the terminals, nothing major. Had the front plug out - nice and clean - not fouled - cleaned anyway. no change still does the same. I might take the fuel tank off tomorrow as I can't get it booked in for weeks anyway
Probably a controversial post, but if you have sprag issues, and don't continually keep pressing the "go" button... I think you can get away with just changing only the sprag spring... Only if you haven't completely buggered the mating surfaces by trying to start the bike with a knackered sprag. I've changed 2 at a grand cost of about 5 quid each, and both times have continued to use the bike with zero issues for years after. I figured if it didn't work I could change fully all the parts (listed above) super quickly as you have just done the job once and then have the experience in hand... Plus I have a percentage of Scottish blood in me...and I'm as tight as a gnat's chuff
Any memorable symptoms last time it ran? Usual procedure always worth getting out the way - have you a spark?/have you fuel - is plug wet immediately after a few attempts?
It is still pushing air out the exhaust when cranking - no plug is not wet after attempts, it has been a bitch idling going up and down a few k revs after the winter lay up - but I put that down to old fuel. once I ran a tank empty it was fine. last ride was 100 miles and I filled up with premium and did 5 miles from the petrol station to my house. not used the bike for 4 weeks and it is doing this now. I have taken off the panels in preparation for the fuel tank removal and noticed that the 2 breather connectors on the right hand side of the tank were completely blocked with white stuff. I unscrewed the nipples and ran a small drill through to unblock them. but the back hole where the nipple goes into is completely full of that white gunk as well. the front hole is free. I don't know which one of these is the breather and which is the fuel overspill and don't know if it is safe to poke up into the petrol tank to try and unclog it. I have watched a few sprag videos and my bike doesn't sound like that.
be careful rodding through any breather that runs "through" the tank as rupture of same will mean a scrap tank unless you decide to seal outlet altogether. I would be tempted to try short burst of GT85 or WD40 into the air filter inlet and churn immediately to see if you get a "cough".
I would not rely on jubilee clips. My personal choice is double eared clips. I use a pair of pincers to compress them.
Drained 10 Litres of fuel - I don't get that swishing/spraying in the tank he showed in the video so I doubt it's that. Haven't taken the tank apart as I don't want to unless its 100% the fault. I'm about to give up Noticed today the battery Voltage drops to 11.8V with the ignition on. 12.5V with it off Is that normal ?
voltage is fine, not saying it's definitely the case, but just the "drop" on the machines voltmeter is often slightly inaccurate, i.e. - could be 12 not 11.8 in reality. My 1098 often reads 11.5 on turning on ignition, particularly in winter yet still starts the bike everytime with acceptable churn.
