Could someone kindly explain to me what's the difference between the rear caliper brembo P2( that from what I understand is the stock one on the MTs 1200s ) and the M4? Is it worth the upgrade? Thank you
Are you a rear brake user ? If not, IMO, it's most definitely not worth it. You can improve the current brake performance by fitting better pads for a lot less and carry out a periodic bleed with the caliper removed from the bike and held above the ABS manifold. I fitted a Brembo race version rear caliper to my track Multistrada and it really wasn't necessary. Andy
With my IAM Roadsmart hat on, trail braking is not recommended for road riding. With my 56 years of riding experience hat on, I’d look at using a better brake pad, up grade the brake fluid for a higher temperature spec and bleed the system a couple of times a year. Andy
Maybe I expressed myself in the wrong way. I use the rear brake to slow down before the corner. I also use the front ones but the rear one, fine tunes it for me.
Better I still think you can get better performance from what you have got. I use Motul 660 brake fluid, it has a wider operating temperature band and is less affected by heat than standard. I have also fitted a sintered Brembo race pad and as said before, I release the caliper from the mount, undo the clips along the length of the pipework and hold it as high as it will go before bleeding. As I blow 2 pairs of tyres a year, I bleed the caliper every tyre change, cuts down on the work. Andy
I added a brake pedal extender and adjusted it up slightly, this made a huge difference to the efficiency of the rear brake. It was from Altrider but I don’t think they sell it any more for the Multi. https://www.adventurebikeshop.co.uk...-brake-system-for-the-bmw-f-850-750-gs-black/ This is the BMW version which looks identical
You can replace/remove the caliper without removing the wheel. It's just a little tighter on space, but get the bolts lined up with gaps between spokes and you should be fine. I will say I've had 3 different rear calipers on the multi in the past 10 years and what has made the biggest difference is keeping on top of bleeding with whichever one I've had.
Hi Andy looking at doing IAM on bike did it years ago in the car, can I ask why it's not recommended, I come from a racing before road background and it was always used to help keep bike in a straight line and to help the bike squat and settle before front brake corner entry, as most bike are fitted with linked brakes I suppose it's pointless cheers.
@ALAN OSWIN, the current wisdom from IAM RoadSmart is that all your braking and gear selection should be completed whilst the bike is at its most stable, upright and not leant over in a bend. If you have to brake or change position in a bend, your planning has gone to rats or you have not anticipated what could be reasonably expected. I have spent a fair bit of time on a track and have ridden on the road for over 50 years, I consider the ability to trail brake an advantage but it is not something I would advocate during associate mentoring. Hope that answers your question. Andy
Road and track use are very different - consider Keith Code's old mantra that you have a fixed amount of grip available, that can used for longitudinal (acceleration, braking) or in lateral shear when cornering - if the sum of what you're asking the tyre to do at any one time exceeds that fixed limit, something is going to give. On the track, you've (usually) got a pretty predictable environment in terms of what's going to happen to that grip but, on the road, you've got highly variable road surface, camber, diesel, unexpected behaviour by other traffic, migrating hamsters etc. so you're much more likely to suddenly exceed that limit. And that's without dealing with the change in vehicle dynamics from braking whilst leant over. Hence the strong recommendation to get your planned braking done in a straight line before turning in. HTH… BTW, I have no IAM 'sell' - in fact I fell out with IAM central as they became more prescriptive and less supportive of the local groups, who do all the work. But that doesn't invalidate the excellent work that the local groups do or the value of the training itself. [context: old school RAC/ACU & CamRider instructor, former IAM Observer, RoSPA Gold, been through California Superbike School, Rapid Training courses etc etc]
So I removed the caliper, bleed the system and installed new pads. It brakes but I'm not able for example to do skids. Which for me it's when a rear brake works as it should. It's it just me or I should be able to lock the rear so quick to enable me to skid. Thanks
Can I double check with you Andy cause you're very knowledgeable, that the bolts to fix the calipers back are 25 nm? Thanks
@Mike 999, 25 Nm is fine and don’t forget to put a small amount of Moly grease on the threads, they should not be dry. Andy
Thanks. But I still have a feeling that something is not quite right. Let me be more precise. When I turn with wheel and start pushing the brake, the biting point is very low. Let's say the brakes engage in the last 20% of the total travel. Again I've bled the system so much and no bubbles are coming out. . I'm leaving it over night pressed down to see if it makes any difference. Still I feel like there's air trapped there somewhere. Why else would the brake bite so late?
In my experience, Ducati rear brakes across the range have different bite points. The Multistrada is not one that has a short brake lever throw. There is adjustment but you need to ensure you don’t take out all the free play or the rear brake will always be on. If the rear brake lever doesn’t ‘pump up’ and become firmer, then you don’t have air in the system. If however, the brake pumps up firmer, you will have air in the system. The problem is, you are pumping from the master cylinder up to the ABS manifold, through the manifold and then down to the caliper. That is why some Multistrada riders take the caliper off and hold it above the ABS manifold to bleed it. Another trick is to submerge the end of the pipe you attach to the rear caliper bleed nipple in brake fluid. Open the bleed nipple and then just pump the rear brake lever continuously whilst someone keeps the reservoir topped up. It can take upwards of 250ml to get results. As has been already suggested, a brake lever extender may give you better feel but the Multistrada rear brake is notorious for being “limp”. Andy
