I’m guessing this is one of those topics and I’ve seen various posts about this, but… what’s the current thinking on the best chain for track use? Also, what’s the best tool for removing the chain and putting the new one together (like pretty much everything related to the bike, it will be the first time I’ve done it). I noticed that the original chain had stretched quite a bit after a few track days and needed quite a bit of adjustment, so I’m guessing there are higher quality chains than the OEM one on the SP2 that might stretch a bit less. The sprockets look ok - I cannot particularly notice anything obvious with the teeth - but is it worth changing them out for something else at the same time as doing the chain or only when required? Also, what would indicate that it’s time to change the sprockets?
My current go to is RK. As for a tool , I bought a DID KM500R 20 years ago and I’m still using it. Andy
I use DID, but it is purely personal preference, I had a British make bike chain on my TZ250 when I Used to race and it came with the bike and it broke on the line during a race, and this is not a high-performance bike. It was utter rubbish despite being properly maintained, choose with care and everything should be fine! I assume the bike uses a 520 chain as standard? if you are downsizing from, say, a 525, then maybe be a little picky and check out the specs.
My bike has 520 as standard. i’ve seen people recommend changing sprockets at the same time as the chain, but I’m not sure if that’s just because they sell them… Probably. How often do you guys usually change the chain / sprockets for track use only?
I’ve fitted a Sitta, hard anodised, aluminium rear sprocket but kept a steel front. I anticipate the rear to last maybe 2000 or 3000 track miles and the steel front, 4 or 5 times that. On road, I’m 50,000+ miles and I’m on my 3rd set of sprockets. Andy
As with lots of spares nowadays there are a lot of fake chains around. Buying from a reputable dealer is possibly the safer way rather than random ebay sellers. Had one that was supposedly DID but the gold coating rapidly disappeared. I use a Whale tool to connect chains
To remove a chain I use my Milwaukee multi tool with a cutter for metal fitted, seen peeps use an angle grinder. For fitting I just borrow my local mechanics tool but don’t know it’s make. Don’t recall ever changing just a chain or sprockets always as a set.
Tsubaki chain, whale riveter! Job done! I only change sprockets when needed, I replace chain 2 or 3 times per season depending on use obvs!
Do you use the Sitta quick release carrier also Andy? Have you noticed any wear on the carrier / sprocket locking lugs? I had same on my old bike but when I removed the chain to put a new one on, I noticed some serious slop between the Sitta carrier and Sitta sprocket. Sent some video of the slack and wear marks to Motorcycle Race Parts and he admitted to have not seeing anything that bad before. Has put me off buying another one as I don’t want to be replacing the carrier as well as a sprocket each time.
Sitta don’t do a QR carrier for the Multistrada so I’m not able to give you any feedback. I went for Sitta because they were the only one to offer a 45 tooth 520 in stock. Done about 1200 track miles so far and no sign of wear. Andy
I have a quick change carrier and use Talon sprockets but I don't do many miles per year and the rear sprockets are alloy. They do make steel sprockets though and I guess they could make a custom sprocket with a different number of teeth if you supplied a pattern.
I think I’ll go for the Sitta sprockets (I believe I need 16/41, aluminium at the back and steel at the front) and I think I’m happier not going for the quick-change style. Is there a benefit to using the Sitta sprocket hub as well? I’m not sure how the weight compares to the OEM one on the SP2 and if there are any negatives to using it. The WRS website shows a WSBK version for not much more money but doesn’t give any information about it. I assume it’s fine to keep using the original cush drive parts and corresponding bolts? Is there anything that should be changed as a matter of course when changing sprockets? I’ll probably get a DID ERV7 chain (I think 114 links is the required length). Do they include the master link with chains? I assume they must do but I’m always happy to ask daft questions… I’ll get a DID tool as well.
One of the features of using a quick change sprocket carrier is that they normally have a small lip to retain the cush drive rubbers. This prevents the cush drive from damaging the rear hub if it breaks up and then starts to dig into the hub adjuster etc. Whether you can get a sprocket that does the same I do not know.
I hadn’t noticed that but I’d guess they should be changed long before they would break up? Wouldn’t quick change be heavier?
