My MotoBatt battery on the 916 died a sudden death last weekend. Although it was still putting out a good voltage, I was surprised to find a puddle of battery acid under the bike shortly after a quick blast a week or so back. Through good fortune, I discovered it quickly and realised that it wasn't coolant, so had a good opportunity to strip it all down and clean everything. However - I decided to replace that 6.25kg behemoth of a battery with something a little more modern (along with upgrading the reg/rect, as I suspect that may well have had a hand in killing the battery). So - this weekend I set about designing some brackets to securely hold the miniature UltraBatt LiFePO4 battery, and 3D-printed them. Though they are a little chunky, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome overall. (BTW - I haven't fitted the reg/rect in the photo, waiting on some alum plate to make up a new mounting bracket). I think I'll also be able to print up another set for my 888, which is useful also. However - one thing that makes me wonder.. ahead of me actually taking it for a run - is the material I'm printing in (PLA) going to be suitable for the sort of typical temperatures that they may be exposed to under the fairing?, or should I try moving to something else (PLA+? ABS?). Worst case scenario, the design lends itself to the two parts being laser cut from alum, but I'm interested in the expected tolerances for 3d printing. @Bridgland - particularly interested in your view and recommendations here, given your experience of 3d printing bike components Thanks! Mike
I don't know anything about 3D printing Mike but it might be a good idea, if you haven't already, to replace the OEM regulator with a modern one suitable for use with a Lithium battery. The Shindengen FH020AA, used on modern Ducatis and many other makes, is the one most favoured. It's a 3-phase regulator but for a single phase alternator leave the extra input terminal with nothing connected to it.
Aye Derek - hope you're well, that's exactly the plan - I have a FH020AA sitting on the bench, along with a Triumph harness
Hey Mike - the PLA+ is what I use currently for tough plastic parts. They also react nicely to high temperatures and really need well over 150 degrees C to start getting close to melting (my PLA+ struggles to melt under 180 degrees C and flows nicely in the printer at 220 degrees C). As long as you aren't close to exhaust components, PLA+ is certainly worth looking at and is generally tougher than ABS). Hope this helps, Chris
I feel I might be faced with similar battery failure and would willingly underwrite some production if your solution works.
That wouldn't be a problem at all Paul - I'll be doing a little more work on it this weekend, changing the design slightly, and reprinting in the new material that Chris recommended. I'll drop you a line once done.
Just to close this off - now finished and tested using the new material that Chris suggested. I updated the design to be a little less chunky, and to use the material that Chris suggested above. I also took advantage of the fine weather this weekend to take a run out on the 916 and it all remained secure. Job done! - I'm planning on servicing up my 888SP5 this winter, so will probably do the same for it.
