When my arthritic fingers flare up the clutch pull becomes difficult and when dealing with in town traffic makes the flare up worse... This wasn't so bad with my recent other bikes mostly BMW's whether cable or hydraulic clutches. Aftermarket manufacturers claim that their product eaes the force needed for the clutch pull? Was wondering if anyone has opted for one and is the manufacturers claim for this eased clutch pull true or just more snake oil? Quick edit- my bike is a 23 Pikes peak V4, again not horrible, but I need to do something to ease it some more
does anyone know if the slave on 899s is made by brembo? i believe this seal on mines gone, loses fluid slowly, can it be replaced, otherwise its an oberon
It's definitely true Leo, and there are many threads on here debating this. Although some slave manufacturers might claim more, the overall main benefit* is at the expense of you moving the lever slightly further, you probably knew this already. As long as you are happy spanning the slightly extra movement "in one go" then it ought to help. Even everything else in totally tip-top condition will show a slight improvement. Which Multistrada for starters - including this, you might get more answers specific to your bike. * this benefit is only provided that the replacement slave bore/piston is larger than your current one in the first place.
I had an Oberon one on my 1260 but haven't felt the need to change the OE slave on the V4S. I have however fitted different levers (link below) and that made a big difference to position and feel for both clutch and brake. Ducabike Ducati Multistrada V4 Adjustable Brake + Clutch Levers GP2 2021+ | Conquest Racing Ltd
Thanks Chris- sorry I thought I mentioned it, its for the 23 Pikes Peak V4 when you mean moving the lever slightly further do you mean further in travel to disengage and the friction would start closer to the grip like as soon as I start releasing, rather than further out? In other words currently my friction and disengage is closer to the rest point of the lever, if I opt for the aftermarket then I would need to pull in further to disengage and friction zone would be almost at the time I start to let out the lever.... If this is the case then I wouldn't mind because this is my preference to have my hand more in a closed position when I hit the friction zone- but when my hand really flares up doesn't really matter where the friction zone range is on the lever...lol
Not sure if the unit is Brembo but my 2013 Diavel did this but always caught itself before the repair warranty would expire- so basically a leak would develop every 3-4 months, dealer replaced it 3 times in total- 3rd one was the charm held for nearly a year, maybe even longer but some lady decided to run me over and park her Nissan on top of me and the bike.... which totalled the bike we even made eye contact at the intersection... she gunned it anyway....lol
Yeah the V4S is not that bad unfortunately the owner is damaged, was there a noticeable difference with the Oberon on the 1260? Thanks for providing another option to explore with the the levers
The Oberon was good on the 1260, softer and much smoother than the OE slave and that was with the standard OE levers. Not sure that Oberon do one for the V4, 12+ months ago they didn't.
The Oberon improved the lever on both my 1200 & 1260. I’m pretty sure they don’t list a V4 fitment, but I’ve got it in my head that the Panigale shares the same cylinder as the Multi. A quick check of part numbers will clear it up. CNC do one and they claim a lighter clutch action. I thought the V4 was a big improvement on the 1260 but recently it seems to be getting less so. EDIT: Just checked, different part numbers but they look the same.
sorry Leo, I missed the "V4 "in red at the beginning of your thread title. What a larger slave cylinder does is just slightly extend your overall hand movement operation between fully engaged clutch and fully disengaged clutch. just how far the point is between when you start to pull the lever and the initial "biting "point, is arrived at initially by the way the master cylinder is set up*, but can be altered by the use of well-designed aftermarket adjustable levers to some degree. The above distance referred to, becomes a bone of contention not only sometimes on standard bikes, but can be more so when people do change the slave cylinder** because due to mechanics of hand, size of hand and health problems, it can be crucial to get this right compared with the average user as regards hand operation. * I can't speak for your V4 model, but there is normally some form of fine adjustment even on a standard master cylinder, but this is for factory set up, an absolute last resort, and should only be looked at if somebody has already tampered with it and made things worse. Bite point slightly changes as clutch wears as well of course. ** you can appreciate that the "bite "point also gets altered when the slave cylinder has a different piston bore dimension.
