I've had the bike from new covering just 855 miles over 6 weeks. Just completed the first dealer service which included a chain check/tighten as part of the service at 740 miles. The chain is getting slack again, I just adjusted it as per the owner's manual. It's noticeable on the quickshifter, the lower gears (1st, 2nd & 3rd) became a little jerky above the recommended shift point of 2,500 rpm. So, with the low mileage, I was thinking of changing just the chain, does anyone know the chain spec? 520 chain? But how many links? Thanks
I'm not sure what the spec is, but have ordered a DID gold chain for my Anniversary when it arrives in March. I'm glad I have, reading this!
What were you thinking!?!?? https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/take-your-bike-to-the-dealer-to-adjust-the-chain.91154/ Jokes aside - it sounds like the OEM chain is not fit for purpose, and it might be worth using those words with your dealer! I would expect the chain spec to be in the user manual and 520/whatever to be marked on the chain links. Also - shifting at 2500rpm! Where's the fun in that?!?
No idea who has advised you to change gear at 2500rpm. The standard bike meets EU5 emissions regulations which means the torque doesn’t become useable until round about 5000rpm. I know during running in, the recommendation is to not exceed 5500/6000rpm but that’s where you should be in the rev band. Had ours coming up 18 months, 6000 miles and it’s a hoot. Only issue with the chain is, it goes rusty in the blink of an eye so you need to keep on top of it. Andy
Keith, thanks for the link, the Profi Cat laser alignment tool discussed within it looks like a really good investment - I run really accurate LightTech chain adjusters on my S1000RR but I can't find anything similar to buy for the Monster+. 2500 rpm - I was just quoting the user manual - minimum revs upshift is recommended at 2500 rpm which I observe around town when sticking to the speed limits. Of course, I explore the full rev range after her engine is nice and warm. I've looked at the chain, and of course there are no markings upon it that I can see... it's made of cheese after all... In discussion with an after-market chain specialist, he thought the chain is a 520 but confirmed that there are 106 links, so I'll measure the chain link to make sure. Just measured it and it is a 520 size chain (5/8 inch between the links and 4/16 inch is the gap between the inner most chain links = 520) DID 520 VX3 Gold chain with 106 links is part number is D520-VXGB-106 and the 30mm axle wheel nut torque setting is 145Nm - you'll need some float to secure the other end of the axle against whilst using the torque wrench on the opposing side, I was lifting the back wheel off of the ground last night whilst applying the torque
I just ordered the chain and a laser alignment tool - and if anyone thinks I limit myself to upshifts/downshifts at 2500rpm then I'm sorry that I didn't qualify it further - I don't. It's just so frustrating that there is so little technical information on this forum for the new Monster+ owners amongst us that I feel bound to post everything I find elsewhere on this forum for other users to find if this forum is to stay relevant. Haynes don't even do a manual for it, the owner's manual doesn't have a section dedicated to informing us of any bolt torque settings so that we can do basic maintenance. Brake caliper bolt torque settings? Front Axle bolt settings? Anyone know or can point me in the right direction to find the data?
The owner's manual we got with the bike simply states “DQS is designed to work above 2500rpm” with no reference to “minimum revs”. IMO, if you are changing gear at 2500rpm in any gear, that is a contributory factor in the chain elongation you have experienced and evidenced by the ‘little jerky’ operation you describe in your first post. IME, the EU5 environmental restrictions have changed the character of the modern Ducati L twin engine and similar to changing from the early 1200 Multistrada to the modern V4 Multistrada, it requires a different riding style to get the best out of it. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, just highlighting an issue that has created a lot of discussion in my riding circle. Andy
Thank you for the information Andy, I'll take that on board and try to change my riding style to hold the gear longer and only change at higher revs, but I can't get over the total chain stretch in 100 miles of enthusiastic B road riding, surely? I'm going to change the chain to DID X-Ring this weekend and report back. Both my other bikes are 525 chains - granted they are not Euro 5. I check the chain every 1000 miles or so on those often with little or no adjustment, but then I'm not comparing apples with apples. A 520 chain is either on or beyond the upper limit of what the chain manufacturers use as a guide. 520 = 600-800cc 120 Hp, clearly at 937cc & 111 (or so Hp) and a good helping of torque
I like to change gear as soon as the next gear will pull without throwing a shitty which is generally about 2-3000 revs, the DQS doesn't like it it prefers much higher revs which is why I don't like it and have disabled it. I would say that 3000 is a minimum for the DQS.
