Does anyone know how to adjust the front preload on the Ohlins without marking the 32mm nuts? They are as soft as cheese and you can’t use a straight forward metal socket. I had a plastic ‘Snap On’ adaptor for the 1260 PP but that’s was smaller.
You know those cloths that come with glasses, the silky ones? I used one of those last time I adjusted mine.
When i asked JHP Coventry to adjust mine, Rick used one of these. I think because the force is going through a different angle it works much better plus its much easier to count each turn. https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/tools-a...81UR8YgfLcIn1BgsySmG5u6OkqZKDWBkaArk-EALw_wcB
The other thing I’ve used is a latex glove. For the adjusters, other stuff too but we don’t need to go into that.
I can understand that happening with a fork cap but the preload adjusters shouldn’t be too difficult to turn so shouldn’t require much force. Other people recommend masking tape, Ive not tried it myself, always used electrical tape, but I must just do so next time, just to compare.
I've just done mine. I used a micro polishing cloth and an adjustable spanner. Laid the cloth over the entire nut and then just snugged the spaner up tight. No marks at all and as previously mentioned the nut is actually not that stiff. Takes a few goes to get one complete turn of the nut in. Biggest problem I had was getting the retaining clip out for the fork plug, bloody clip snapped off on one of them!!
Are you guys adjusting for your weight or track purposes? I'm like 220 pounds geared up and I feel it still sits chopperish like, and slightly jarring and I have the rear at Medium and single rider with the preload around the middle range For me this is a happy medium for comfort and handling...don't want to go any stiffer to make the bike sit level-ish
There appears to be few members dropping the forks by 10mm and getting good results. This always worked well with Tuonos. I’ll be giving it a try in the spring. I’m also getting my suspension set up at Reactive at the same time.
I've dropped my forks by 10mm plus taken some of the preload off. Main reason was the front of the bike was sat way to high for me. My static sag for my weight (80kg kitted) was not enough and after a quick ride I was only ever using the first 50% of travel. I've only taken two turns out of the preload and its better, might need another turn or two to get it right. I think it has five full turns in as standard. Plus being a short arse it helps slightly too.
This is the type of thing you need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36258913...MIvdrwpqbdggMV3ZJQBh15ggPLEAQYBSABEgLB5vD_BwE They fit inside a socket that's a couple of sizes larger and work a treat. I too use a speed brace and it makes the job much easier.
Indeed, I think the most delicate thing is to loosen the cable pins. Use a small screwdriver to release the latch and they come off easily. Then to adjust, do not use a wrench. I used, as we say here, a "spanner" that is adjustable, along with a cloth. It rotates smoothly and does not interfere with the handlebars, although it is more entertaining, it is the safest way to avoid marking. I weigh 75 kg (without equipment) and I take it to the minimum and I am almost at the perfect SAG. In fact, in more extreme driving I have about 3 cm left to the stop and it works perfectly.
Meaning- you also have 5 turns clockwise to gain more PL? or How many turns does it have in total from full to loose?
