OK all variations of Minis have their fans, and I'm not going to say any particular model is necessarily better than another. However it is undeniable that if your son's girlfriend is tempted by or is found a suitable R56, it is definitely worth remembering the engine N18 was fitted to R56 Cooper S from 2010 and JCW from 2012. The N18 is significantly more reliable, faster and fuel friendly than the N12 & N14 versions of the same engine that came before.
Interesting…so a 2008 Cooper S would be supercharged or turbo ? I also noticed road tax is less on a 2008 than a 2005 ?
If your daughter prefers comfort over performance and decent MPG then the standard mini engine is the one to buy. I would suggest she test drive a few to get the ‘feel’ for the difference they have. My partners clubman is no slouch when driven correctly, but isn’t a match for a Cooper or S. My Daughter has a Audi A1 which is a much better car all round than is a Mini.
The R52 ‘Supercharged’ convertible ran until 2008, 2 years longer than the hatchback so it could be a supercharged still, easy to tell.
Took the mini over to my mates today and he gassed the aircon, luckily it all worked straight away and the radiator fans etc came on. It’s a relief as messing around with air con pumps etc is a faff! So one more job ticked off!
Today’s job, that I’ve been putting off was headlining…. Urgh! id give myself 5/10, had a wrinkle at the front and it was too hot really so the glue went off way too fast. weirdly I like it with the contrast of the hardware, the whole interior is so dark that I’m not sure I want to spray those parts black.
The red ones do seem to peal badly….. I’ve been out today putting upgraded speakers in mine, and getting some new tools to try and do the other wheel bearing. I can’t get the coolant system to bleed though so it doesn’t have an air lock in the heater matrix, which is super super annoying. Oh well!
My 2005 R53 snapped its serpentine belt recently. I’ve had it replaced but the EML light is still on, the engine is misfiring and won’t propel the car any faster than 10mph. The mechanic is a bit baffled as his diagnostic doodah reckons it’s something to do with the air mass meter. We did consider whether the belt dislodged an air hose or sensor when it snapped, but we can’t see any issues of that nature. I’ve also since asked him to see if any of the old belt got trapped behind a pulley but haven’t heard back from him yet. Any ideas gratefully received. Thanks. EDIT: the mechanic just called me to say that my brainwave was spot on. He had a look around the back of the pulleys and it seems that when the old belt snapped, it damaged the rubber damper on the crank pulley. Part on way and hopefully should get me back on the road soonish.
the rubber crank pulley has been known to wear out and split with age anyway so wouldn’t be the worst thing to replace it. While you are there mate replace the tensioner assembly, if it fails it will just collapse and hit the crank pulley anyway. And tbh a worn idler pulley may well have been why it snapped
Thanks. That’s really useful. I’ll copy and paste the whole of that post to my mechanic tomorrow morning
let us know how u get on, they aren’t known to throw belts typically tbh unless the crank pulley is already on the way, and oscelating or the tensioner damper has gone and the belt is slapping