Here's the suspension set-up I currently have at 18,000 Kms for the Monster 1200 R. FYI: I'm 177 lbs / 80 Kg in full leather gear (160 lbs / 72.5 Kg without). No pillion, All twisty back roads. Riding on Rosso III. Very pleased with this set-up so far. The Rider SAG percentages and the fore-aft balance are near spot-on which is excellent for me and I also prefer a slight forward pitch. Without hard braking, I'm using 3/4 of the fork travel measured to the bottom-out mark above the fork casting and that's while riding on smooth roads without pushing it. If riding more aggressively or on rougher roads, the zip-tie drops another half inch. In an emergency stop, my zip-tie drops to just above the bottom-out mark. It's also important that I remember that some of these settings should be reviewed every 3000 miles or so as the oil's viscosity deteriorates. Consequently, I consider suspension set-up as a journey, not a destination. I will also be tweaking the compression and rebound settings to see what's best given a particular riding scenario. Keeping a record of these settings is an essential step in this journey.
I'm much heavier than you. How do I go about setting up my suspension for road use? I have a Monster R. I often think that I have suspensions that is fully adjustable, something people pay a lot of money for, and yet in all these years of owning it I have never touched it.
No worries. You're not alone. I would speculate that 95% of bikes have never had their suspension adjusted for their rider's weight, riding style and road conditions. By seeking to customize your bike's suspension, you have taken your first step in joining a small group people that seek to maximize the handling of their motorcycle. If by any chance your suspension was completely out of wack, adjusting it properly will seem heavenly. In fact, you may even think you have a different bike. First step is documenting where you are now. If you're 80~85kg fully kitted, you're in the zone. However, if you're significantly outside this range, the stock springs may not get you there thus you would require a spring swap. 1) Start with fork and shock preload. Using a 17mm socket, turn both fork preload completely counterclockwise and note how many turns. That will set the preload to zero. Then re-set it back clockwise to where it was. Both forks should be the same. Write down the number of turns. Next, for the rear preload, note how many thread lines you have below the castle nut on the rear shock. Write it down. 2) Fork compression: With a hex key (3mm I think) for the left fork leg, turn it clockwise to close it completely and count the clicks until it stops. Don't force it. Write it down and return it to where it was. 3) Fork rebound: With a hex key for the right fork leg, turn it clockwise to close it completely and count the clicks until it stops. Again don't force it. Write it down and return it to where it was. 4) Turn the the compression knob below the shock completely clockwise to close it. Note the number of clicks. Write it down then return it to where it was. 5) Turn the the rear rebound knob above the shock completely clockwise (viewed from the top down or counter-clockwise viewed from the bottom-up) to close it. Note the number of clicks. Write it down then return it to where it was. Now you're ready to start tweaking. You can always go back to these settings if need be. Do this and next, you'll need to set the static SAG and more importantly, the Rider SAG based on your weight. Static SAG on most road bikes should be around 10% of total travel but having a bit more in front is not that critical. Your Rider SAG target is more important and should be about 30% of travel both fore and aft. If you can't get close to 30% here by adjusting preload, you will require changing springs. You'll need a helper for this one. Wear full gear while you're on the bike and your assistant does the measurements. Plenty of YouTubes on this. Of the 6 adjustments, Rider SAG is the one you can set-and-forget unless of course you alter the carrying load on the bike such as having a pillion and/or luggage. Front and rear compression & rebound is a journey which you can tweak based on the riding condition of a particular day. Fork and shock travel should be near 75% of maximum. Use a zip tie on your fork as a measuring instrument. Same for the rear shock positioned between the shock and the black bumper which should be stuck at the top but is probable not. Now get out there and ride. See how much suspension travel you're consuming and adjust accordingly. As previously stated, I'm using about 3/4 of the fork travel measured to the bottom-out mark above the fork casting and that's while riding on smooth roads without pushing it. If riding more aggressively or on rougher roads, the zip-tie drops another half inch. In an emergency stop, my zip-tie drops to just above the bottom-out mark. Hope this helps for starters. Cheers.
