Hi, I have been offered a CNC radiator guard kit and wanted to mount it. I have succeeded in putting the upper one, but to install the lower one I have to unscrew the 2 screws shown below in the picture. It's impossible. I have even damaged one head and the other is also on the verge of being damaged too. It means I will have to Dremel them to make a notch and use a flat screwdriver. I have the Ducati torque settings sheet and for this screws it's stated that they are LOCK1 meaning some 220 Loctite has been used on them which is a weak Loctite strength. Has anyone ever removed this screws ? Thanks in advance.
They are a standard Ducati cap head screw that uses a 3mm Allen key. Unfortunately the head does have a tendency to round out very easily. If a thread lock has been used, I have found it pays to heat the screw before trying to undo it. With the rounded out screw head, try heating the Allen key so it expands fractionally, it might just be enough to get it undone. Andy
Heat might help, but hard to do with all the surrounding plastic. Seems the usual way to get a rounded hex out is to whack a Torx bit into it. Or possibly a reverse drill bit. Good ol' Ducati fasteners, I hate 'em.
What you stated at the beginning is a good as way as any. Put a decent slot in it and a adjustable or mole grips for leverage should do it
I have thought using a heat gun, but indeed with all the surrounding plastic it's a bit dangerous to say the least ! I think I'll go with the slot way.
I have tried to heat the screws with a 80W soldering iron, no luck. I have put a slot in it but the angle I'm holding the screwdriver induced by the front wheel renders impossible the thing. Do you think I can completely cut the round heads and try to remove the screw body with pliers for instance ?
Might work, at least you'd be able to fit the rad guard. Think I'd be trying a reverse drill bit next ...
loving this thread, as the fixings look as though they are toast anyway, I would be tempted to try and insert something that wedges in well, as suggested, even if it's non-standard. I've even ground hex with a slight taper to do the job before now, don't forget to spray/behind with penetrating spray, as there's a chance this could help.
I have ordered a set of extractors. Hope that will do. I still don't get why they are so hard to get out.
Gas soldering iron is the way to go, very useful bit of kit for pin point heating and so much better for soldering than electric
an 80 W soldering iron is quite a bit of heat, and there is plenty of plastic around as OP has mentioned.
It's not a torch, but has a regular soldering tip, the only extra heat from it comes from the catalyst ports which are far enough away from the end. This tool, while I don't use it regularly, is bloody useful when you've got to repair something like vehicle wiring and you're nowhere near an electrical outlet.
These 2 screws are directly connected to the engine head cover as shown in the diagram. I have read in a Youtube comment that when trying to unscrew these 2 bolts, there's a risk of also unscrewing the engine head cover bolts which could lead to potential oil leaks. Even if in my view this is unlikely to happen considering the respective torque values. Do you think this could be a risk to consider ?
