Finally getting into the 999r so I can ride it. Anyone know what this clutch is? No markings and i don't recognise the pressure plate The tangs have rust on them as do the springs. The bike has been stood around fora few years Before i start throwing parts at the assembly should i disassemble first and see what's what? Not having worked on a clutch before does anyone know a good how to video?
That clutch looks in a pretty good shape. Basket/tangs clearance looks tight. I would start by simply removing the pressure plate to check the bearing in the middle and then the discs to blow any friction material dust in there and check friction discs thickness. Spraying the springs with WD40 and wiping them should remove the rust all right. If not, a wire brush will help. When removing the pressure plate, make sure the pushrod that comes across the motor through the shaft from the clutch slave stays in there as it should always come out on the left/slave side, in order to preserve the two small o-rings that are on it. Those are fragile so it’s a good idea to replace them anyways. They avoid engine oil to seep into your « must stay dry » clutch. Beware, the pushrod will want to stay attached to the pressure plate, though, and come out on the (wrong) right side. All you need to do to avoid this is pull the pressure plate just an inch or two, rotate it a couple degrees and push it back so it rests on the 6 spring posts, and then gently tap the rod back towards the motor and out of the plate with a pin chase and a mallet. There are lots of videos out there where people are removing plate and rod together. That’s not the right way to do it… There should be a mark on the pressure plate (I can’t find it on your pic) as well as on one of the 6 spring posts (usually, one is slotted). These must be together when you put the pressure plate plate back on at the end of your maintenance. As a matter of fact, the back of the pressure plate is not symmetrical and it needs to be carefully positionned or your clutch won’t work correctly. Also, don’t forget to put a smear of grease where the clutch rod slides into the pressure plate bearing. Finally, while you’re looking after your clutch, it would be wise to also double check and clean your clutch slave cylinder. Lots of dirt and grease is sprayed in that area due to front sprocket proximity. And in my experience, half the time, the protective rubber boot is mounted the wrong way. Which ends up with a damaged slave leaking clutch fluid. Which is evidenced by flaking paint on the engine case… Always remember the boot is there to avoid dirt to get in the slave, not in the motor. The boot protects the slave. This is an interesting video where you can see the rod being pulled on the wrong side and the slave rubber boot is found mounted the wrong way. Just as an illustration. Overall, dry clutch maintenance is a very simple and rewarding task that requires common sense and method. So have fun!
Should i also be removing the hub and basket or not needed. Basket looks good I've seen far worse so it won't need replacing. Bike has done 5k miles
I would start with just the pressure plate and clutch pack. As it’s a 999R, I suspect it has a slipper clutch - if so, it may be either the original 3 ramp Ducati one or may have been replaced with a ball and ramp type. When the pressure plate is removed, if it’s a slipper you will see the spider spring - this looks like a spider… Either way, as the bike has been sitting around for a while, the slipper mechanism will need regreasing. One needs to remove the hub to do this. To remove hub and/or basket one needs a clutch holding tool.
to add to above, while dismantled - check that the pressure plate spigot bearing (pushrod locates in it's centre) is free to spin and not "clunky" when you turn it, as looking at yours + the standing time, there's a good chance that it needs replacing.
Not sure I’d agree there Mr Booty! I have a stock 3 ramp one on my track bike and it works just peachy - one just needs to keep it greased and it’s fine.
Commonly known as ‘fifth wheel’ grease (articulated trailer grease), high temperature melting point, used SPARINGLY. Andy
Bugger. I only have white lithium grease and general stuff. Im doing a Screwfix run later. Do they have it?
If it’s not a slipper, you won’t need any grease. I have always used moly grease with no issues. You’d be best checking what sort of clutch you have before you possibly waste your time trying to get grease you may not need.
I’m still working through a couple of spoonsful I scrounged from a local heavy goods vehicle workshop about 15 years ago. Any decent high temp, thick grease should do. As Richard said, if it’s not a slipper, you won’t need it. Andy
Compared to the STM and the Sigmas Ive had consequently, the stock one is rubbish. Although, I entirely agree that that may have had more to do with me and my zero slipper experience back then. However, the Sigmas are like jewels. You can keep your rough hewn lump of granite. /raspberry
I also have an STM 48t 6 post classic (bought brand new - it was almost too lovely to fit!) and an STM Evo too. They quite rightly behave beautifully too. Anyways…I loves a bit of rough!
