Replacing the chain and sprockets on the above. Anybody have the torque settings for the sprockets at all and if they need loctite?. Anybody had the failure of the tacho to read due to the little brass ferrule moving on the square-end of the drive cable at the engine end. A new cable is probably the answer but would like to save the current if I can.
Haynes manual says. No torque setting at the beginning of chapter. I think the nut are a locking type with a metal washer insert but I don't know the name of them. Cheers Gaz
Rear sprocket nuts M10x1.25: 46Nm +-5% with LOCK2 (Medium-strength threadlocker) from workshop manual.
Hey, your tacho cable issue, I have seen this a couple of times. I think you’ll find the cable is on upside down, the little brass ferrel on the inner cable should be at the clock end..
Cheers P, I would never have thought of that. Had the bike 20 years without a problem. It's always been that way but that doesn't mean it was right. Oddly enough, I read a thread on here where someone had the front chain sprocket on the wrong way around (thick splined bit facing outermost). It obviously worked but not as intended. Thanks once again re the cable. I'll defo reverse the cable and... fingers crossed .
These were the nuts I was thinking of and from memory have on my bike. (but as mentioned other lock nuts available) Cheers Gaz
A wee story of near death for you that I feel I should tell. I bought some locknuts several years ago off Ebay, similar to the ones above with the metal tangs on the upper most edge. I put them on my bike, and the sprocket had recessed areas, which these nuts didn't quite fit into as the flange was just a little too big. I put them on and torqued them up, thinking, that'll be fine as they were listed for our bikes. From memory the sprocket was a renthal. Fast forward to a rideout I was on, must have been doing about 60mph, noise from the back end like a rotating click. I braked rapidly as it was getting louder. Back wheel locked up, thankfully I managed to slow it enough first. The locknuts were backing off, and they had cut a significant groove in the swingarm. The issue being, if the tabs are not properly on the sprocket bolts, they don't lock. Since then the ones I have got from Ducati are oval in shape, so they grip all the way down the thread. So, take from that what you will. I have first hand experience of using the wrong part on a critical area, due my own stupidity, I avoided coming off at speed (and perhaps meeting the reaper). Thankfully I was OK, got the swingarm welded up again, and never made the same mistake again. I'm not saying not to use these locking nuts, but make sure they are fully seated and locked, which I did not.
Yes the gap between the end of bolt thread and swing arm is quite small and as you say the nuts need to onto the threads and not just touching the end of the bolt. So Oval ones in this instance might be the safer choice. Cheers Gaz
Desmo, History has repeated itself to a (small) degree !!! The flanged locking nuts I ordered online and are exactly as you described insofar as the overall diameter of the flange is probably a couple of mm larger than the original and so will not seat correctly in the recessed parts of the rear sprocket. Thank you very much for the "heads-up". A call to Ducati, Manchester tomorrow as they are closed today.
I did get some like these online but the flange element is slightly oversized so doesn't fit. Desmo on here had an experience that I don't want to repeat so it's an original Ducati part for me on this particular job. Thanks for your help.
If the above recollection has helped anyone, my work is done here. I was very lucky, and can only blame myself as I should've known better.
Your work is never done on a Duke.. Right brother ...and sisters... Nobody knows everything..even the basics...like me. This same question..and others like it.. will be asked a zillion times by goons like me. A simple chain change exposed series of unfortunate events waiting to happen. ...that didn't. Coz of peeps like you. Thank you all.
