If you do a sprocket change do you have to have the traction control re flashed ,have heard ducati do a chain and sprocket kit but if poss would just want to change the rear sprocket cheers all,
I had mine done and there was no apparent re flash of the TS. There was an up map install but I am advised this is to do with the quick shifter. You need the new chain as well as it is longer than the original.
Why a longer chain? Unless you are going more than 3 more surely just adjust what you have then reset ride height?
probably because your shortening the wheel base this is my first ducati and they seem a bit of a pain to get set up ? back to flat linkage now so try again ,
Have a chat to our dealer. Don't now abut the Pani but 99* and 1098 you just lift or drop the ride height to get the geometry back in line.
It is a longer chain, I believe, to allow the wheel to step back a bit to avoid the sprocket touching the swing arm. It is part of the kit offer that Ducati are doing. This has come not just from Ducati Coventry who did the fitting but all my American contacts who have done the same thing, so I believe it is necessary.
Not being funny, but how poor a design do they want to go with?! Burning legs, twitchy handling, stuff that needs changing because it just doesnt work, and now you cant simply adjust the chain or it fouls something?!
No Bradders, you do not get the "geometry" back in line like that as you are still left with reduced distance between swingarm pivot and rear axle centre line. All you are doing is readjusting the preload to compensate for an altered ride height due to a shorter wheelbase. In an ideal world, correct method to precisely maintain geometry on any eccentric chain adjust is change the chain length to match different sprocket. FWIW, I've not found anything that doesn't work and don't see how the chain could touch the swingarm if correctly adjusted. I therefore take our American cousins theories with a large pinch of salt. Also, I do not suffer from singed legs or arse for that matter and have not found the bike twichy at all. True, you need to hang on as it lets rip above 8K - it just needs some care and attention FFS. hope this helps
Yeah I know the wheelbase will be different but if youre racing that may make a difference, if its road or just track riding not much really, more how high/low/balanced the bike runs. And why would you adj the preload, its the ride heightthat needs resetting. Why not go down on the front 1 instead? Common change on earlier bikes (in fact most bikes) although chain still needs moving. But front sprocket costs peanuts..
On most ducatis its by moving the ride height bar up or down, as pre load shouldnt change much; you should still have the same sag afaik so wouldnt touch that at all. As I say, don't know how a Pani is adjusted but my 848 and older 916 and monsters were done like that.
Of course you can adjust ride height using the fulcrum linkage but you are still adjusting the preload - just from the other side of the shock. There is a difference between adjusting preload on the sprung side compared to the unsprung side but both will change the preload and that's why I was not sure of bradders original question. An easier way of visualising what I am trying to say is to (theoretically) drop a pair of spacers into the fork tubes to compress the srings i.e. increase preload. Whether you position the spacer at the bottom followed by the spring or spring first with spacer on top, will achieve exactly the same preload, all else being equal. hope this helps
Am I the only one that thinks this sounds wrong? Dropping spacers in the fork tube increases preload because the space available to the spring to expand is reduced, thus it is more compressed and preload increases. When you adjust rear ride height using the ride height adjustment you are changing the overall length of the shock, not reducing the available space for the spring to expand (which is determined by the distance between the shock collar (i.e. preload adjuster) and spring location point).... so preload should not be affected by a ride height adjustment. To run with your rear/front comparison: adjusting rear ride height using the fulcrum is equivalent to raising or dropping the forks in the triple clamp, not adding spacers inside the fork tube. Happy to stand corrected... Ian
I'm a technical numpty, but been around race bikes a while and everyone I know resets ride height by adj the bar or other, not preload. Thats how I set it, and how all the online guides say to set it. Once sag is set, preload is left alone.
