I would have guessed that any brand of 520 chain soft link would fit any brand of 520 chain. But maybe not?? I have a Tsubaki Pro Racing 520 chain on one bike that I want to remove and refit on another bike, so I need a new soft link. Doing a bit of shopping and it may appear that not all 520 soft links are compatible with this chain. Goodness knows why. Can anyone throw an explanation from a position of knowledge rather than a guess? Cheers.
I think that chain is discontinued now so you might struggle to find a compatible link from Tsubaki as it seems they all have different fitment. I’ve removed DID chains and rejoined them with new links but either I got lucky or they are all compatible.
They are definitely not universal fit. The reason you need a chain specific link is that the size of the pins and corresponding side-plate holes are not all the same. You can use a split link from another brand which you know has the same size rivet pins as the pins in your chain.
Interesting thread. Had assumed that a soft-link of the same chain size would fit across brands. Apparently not then. Just collected my new to me Pikes Peak last week. Dealer fitted a new chain a sprockets prior to this without asking me (no charge beyond the negotiated price of the bike) which was a nice touch. This was a standard Ducati kit, RK I think but will check. Ideally I'd like 14/40 rather than the std 15/40. Did this on my previous 1260s Multi which made a significant improvement on the too tall gearing. So was looking at splitting the new chain and swapping out the front sprocket. This would only cost about £25. I see RK ZXW530 soft links for sale, guessing this would be compatible with the std o-ring chain?
It was possible for me to swap out the front sprocket on my 2015 Multi1200s, without splitting the chain.
Would you even need to split the chain to change the front sprocket. I did it on a monster 696. No splitting of chain needed to go from 15 to 14 on the front. No need to shorten the chain either.
I’ve never had to split a chain to drop a tooth on the front. Gearing commander website is useful for chain links required and impact of sprocket changes. https://www.gearingcommander.com/
If it is possible to remove the front sprocket by slackening off the chain at the eccentric adjuster then, yes, you don’t need to split the chain, 14/40 will require a shorter chain than a 15/40, just as 15/42 (or even 43) will require a longer chain - usually 2 links, 108 to 110. The downside of not shortening the chain if you go to 14/40 is that you may reach the end of the possible eccentric arm extension before the chain has stretched beyond its recommended limits. ie the chain is slack but still within tolerance yet you can’t remove the slack. FYI the max recommended stretch over 20 links is 321mm on a 5XX chain. Beyond that point it should be replaced. An east check is whether you can lift it off the rear sprocket at the 3 O’clock position and if so by how much. @Expat Jack yes, you need specific links for specific chains, you can’t assume DID, Regina, Afam etc etc are all the same pin diameters, they’re not.
Thanks all, will give that a go then. It's obviously a brand new chain with under a 100 miles on it so won't be particularly flexible laterally. As mentioned I've gone 14/40 previously when I last changed an end of life chain. Extra links only required when changing rear sprocket. IIRC there's no room to get the chain off the sprocket without sliding the sprocket outwards along the output shaft splines, or or even off it. I presume that those that are suggesting above; this is what you did? Also familiar with gearing commander. Used this when assessing 14/40 vs 15/42.
Yes, with the rear slackened you should be able to slide the front sprocket off the shaft. I did it with a brand new chain. Took a bit of wiggling but in the end it slid off without the need of any tools. Much easier to get the 14 back on.
I’m fairly sure that’s right, 321 millimetres, 32.1cm over 20 pins, centre of pin to centre of pin. I’m sure you could adjust it to tension when it was still new(ish), however a problem may arise (and I’ve never had a bike at that stage of stretch and with 14/40/108 to experiment with) but as the chain is now at least one link longer than actually required it’s possible the movement of the rear eccentric adjuster reaches its limit before the chain has reached its limit. It may not be an issue and there may be enough adjustment in the eccentric to overcome the fact the chain is now longer than intended but then again it might not. As you run 14/40 is there enough movement in the eccentric to accommodate chain stretch until the point the chain is overstretched and needs replacing?
You need to match up a new soft link to the chain you’re joining. Even different spec chains from the same manufacturer can change. When I’ve had to join OEM I’ve had to order a link from Ducati. Pin diameter, plate width, even the o-rings can all be very slightly different. You’ll not need a length change for 1T change on the front. It’s effectively half a link change in length.
I can’t comment on your last paragraph as I simply adjusted it correctly upon fitting, although there was still some further tightening adjustment left in it.