Yes it's true, I am certifiably OCD and whilst that can prove expensive when it involves two wheels, it does a least mean you will all get to witness my madness, now that a couple of days in the garage with an array tools, has set this build in motion, as I've truly pressed the giant reset button on Borgo Panigale's assembly, that up until a week ago was a complete motorcycle. Fear not though, the time scale set for this project is way way shorter than the last but is no less complicated. Many of you might be wondering why I go to such extremes and the simple answer is that I can and because I want to, so if you don't see the point in my methods, this thread is not for you, as I never set out to justify them. For everyone else crack open a cold one, grab some popcorn and settle in for the ride To be continued.......
So as with any build project of this size, you have to start with the basics, which involves taking the bike right back to it's bare bones. A few things have changed from the 2018 model I previously built, which caused me some head scratching during disassembly, but were quickly resolved. Apart from having to drill out two of the inlet manifold bolts, to remove the airbox, which were covered in a ridiculous amount of threadlocker causing the heads to strip (despite using the correct tools), proving the OEM fasteners on Ducatis are STILL made of Swiss cheese, this is the net result of three days work. I've yet to remove the two offending studs which are the remains of the previously mentioned bolts, but that should be easy enough. After a light degrease of the engine, assembly can begin, which I am planning to make a start on hopefully tomorrow. I've amassed quite a few parts to go on the bike including many new ones from MotoCorse (courtesy of Conquest Racing) so looking forward to fitting them. Incidentally the two bolts in the images are the knock sensor bolts which are temporarily in there to prevent any ingress of dirt, when I come to clean the engine. As shown in the image, the first mod many of you will have already seen, namely the STM timing inspection cover, which is a mere trifle compared to what is coming!
For a minute there I thought you were going to plonk a sheet of toughened glass on the heads and shout job jobbed.
So the two studs left in the head (formerly the EDAM inlet manifold bolts) required a LOT more work to extract than I previously had anticipated. After trying numerous methods, I ended up using a propane torch concentrated on the studs to heat them up and thereby soften the copious amount of Loctite on them that the factory insist on using, and they finally came out using a stud extractor tool. Admit to being a bit concerned they would shear off flush with the head, but patience is key, so I am glad the little bas*ards are out and I can crack on.
I really appreciated the end result of your previous project. A lovely bike indeed. A little surprised you could move on so quickly after completion after all that work, but that's just me.. So what bike is this exactly? A V4 I can see, but from which specific Panigale?
Bought this tool because it's all about making your life easier. Knock sensors fitted. New M8x25 polished stainless steel bolts, replacing the ugly original ones. (25Nm and a dab of Loctite 243). Notice the new brass outlet pipe which used to be an open weep hole on older V4s for the water pump, allowing water to pool in the engine casting. Water pump pipe secured in place. Ducati changed the size of some of the jubilee clips on the thermostat housing on later V4 models (now 16-27mm instead of 20-32mm), so currently waiting on the new stainless replacements to arrive before proceeding, since the ones I had already ordered are too large for this model year.
New Mikalor stainless steel (W4 marine grade) jubilee clips arrived today, courtesy of HCL Clamping. These are narrow band (9mm) clips, that allow them to fit over the thermostat housing properly, as the ones Samco sell are too wide and not marine grade. Positoning or rather the angle of each is critical (as per the workshop manual) to ensure you can access the nuts once the airbox is in place, should you ever need to adjust them. Tightening torque is 2-3Nm max, which you really don't want to exceed, else you run the risk of cracking the bosses on the thermostat housing. Here is the Samco hose kit partially fitted. Next up was the purge rail. Replaced all the wire clips with 10mm bright zinc plated ones, since the stock OEM ones are prone to corrosion and rust. Purge rail fitted. Last to go on were the MAP sensor pipes. This completes all the hardware that resides under the airbox. Now to make a start on the wiring. First task was to refit the airbox inner wiring loom, having replaced the stock cableway steel screws with these No. 7 3/8 stainless steel self tapping torx screws instead from ACCU. Next up it was time to fit the airbox bottom half to the engine, starting with the inlet manifold ducts whose retaining bolts fasten the airbox to the cylinder heads. For these I ditched the appalling (and very soft) OEM bolts and replaced them with M6 x 20mm titanium flanged torx socket bolts from RaceTi. 10Nm and a dab of Loctite 243. Much better looking. The lower injectors and fuel rail are now ready to go on....which I will fit later this evening.
Lower injectors and fuel rail fitted. No. 4 injector connector lead tie-wrapped to fuel rail (as per the workshop manual) Titanium M4 x 14mm socket cap bolts holding the injector caps in place (Accu), torqued to 3Nm. With the injector caps secured, next up were the throttle bodies, secured in position by 16 RaceTi M5 x 12mm titanium button head screws, torqued to 8Nm (with Loctite 243). Next it's time to fit the fixed trumpets......
Fixed trumpets in place. These are handed so I made sure to label them when removed. Secured using RaceTi 8 x M5 x 12mm button head torx bolts (6nm & Loctite 243) Next were the variable/motorised trumpets and VIS actuating linkage and motor. Motorised trumpet travel rod plates and end caps complete the set up on top. Actuating linkage secured in place with 4 x RaceTi Flanged Torx Bolts (M5 x 15mm) torqued to 6Nm (Loctite 243) To complete the setup in the airbox, I used 3 RaceTi flanged torx bolts (M5 x 20mm) torqued to 6Nm (Loctite 243) to secure the VIS actuating motor in place. With the inner workings of the airbox now complete, it's time to fit the cover Next is the upper fuel rail and injectors. Secured in place with 4 x M4 x 14mm socket cap titanium bolts (Accu) torqued to 3Nm. To complete closure of the airbox requires a further 4 ACCU bolts. 2 at the front M4 x 10mm socket cap titanium bolts and 2 at the rear (14mm) which also secure the secondary air actuator, map sensor and coil pack bracket. All torqued to 3Nm Front airbox cover bolts Rear bolts secure the secondary air actuator / map sensor / coil bracket I am waiting on some fasteners to make any further progress so hoping to continue work on the bike this weekend. Once the bulk of the central wiring is complete , I can start to fit some of the big ticket items, which is when the real fun starts. That's all for now.
I’m curious to expand my knowledge base. I’m presuming (as you know your stuff) is there not a risk of galvanic corrosion between the Ti bolts and Ally head parts?
Yes but the two metals are quite far apart on the galvanic scale. I used copper grease on the threads leaving a little area exposed for the loctite at the tip of each bolt. Never had an issue with this method, but you are right you can never rule it out completely. To be honest the stock bolts are harder to remove with the totally overboard red threadlocker they insist on using at the factory, for many of the fasteners.
Thank you. Grease and thread lock on the same bolt is more than many (if not most) would do, but possibly the ideal solution. I commend your attention to detail
Front MAP sensor mounts fitted using ACCU A4 marine grade M4 x 8mm button head screws (3Nm) One of the two front map sensors fitted Rear MAP sensors, ignition coil packs and secondary air actuator and its associated pipework fitted Polished stainless steel secondary air cover bolts (Flanged Hexagon Head - Pro Bolt) M5 x 15mm, torqued to 6Nm (Loctite 243) Titanium flanged torx head secondary air actuator bolts (RaceTi) torqued to 4Nm Upper injector loom and front map sensor wiring fitted BBS & Ohlins DES ACCU A4 marine grade stainless steel ECU bracket bolts (M4 x 8mm - 3Nm) BBS and Ohlins DES ECUs fitted. Main ECU refitted. Loom button-tied and tie-wrapped as per workshop manual Coil packs secured using Pro Bolt M6 x 15mm tapered socket cap stainless steel bolts (10Nm & Loctite 243) Loom tie wrapped as per workshop manual, where specified. With most of the primary loom now fitted, I decided to fit the first of many new billet alloy parts. This one being the engine frame support from MotoCorse, that replaces the ugly cast aluminium OEM item Fitted to the bike using ProBolt M8 x 25mm bolts (24Nm) including the special OEM locking washers, introduced on later bikes. Next up the rear headers of the new Termignoni D200 titanium exhaust....
Decided to fit the titanium rear headers now, else it's a pig to get to the retaining nuts with much else in place. Slightly more contortuous than the Akra system so even with swivel sockets, it was still a PITA to get to some of the nuts. 10Nm torque all round. More billet alloy. This time I conceded and had my local Ducati specialist fit this part as my circlip pliers are not man enough to tackle the one on the rear hub, so rather than run the risk of damaging anything, I ran the swing arm over to him to fit this MotoCorse billet alloy caliper plate, to replace the ugly OEM item. It is a thing of beauty when viewed up close, as with all their products. Tomorrow I will start tackling the infamous "Medusa's Head", otherwise known as the secondary wiring loom. With that done I will be a step closer to fitting the main frame back on to the engine, once some more parts arrive. I also hope to fit the rear suspension support brackets. More on those later.
Any carbon on the bike that is matte including some of the Termignoni exhaust heat shields and various other parts are off to the paint shop to be clear coated, as most of those that follow my builds know only too well I don't like matte/satin carbon. I am also in the process of preparing/packing various parts for Cerakoting, including the radiator and oil cooler, so I hope to get those dropped off this week. Once all these parts are complete, the build will really begin to take shape....that's all for now folks
So all the parts I am having Cerakoted and clear coated are ready to drop off tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too long a wait before they are ready and I can crack on. Had a major re-organisation of the garage as well, since a lot of other stuff besides the bikes gets stored in there over the Winter, such as the BBQ and garden furniture, so I had to arrange everything in such a way that access to the bike is not compromised over the months ahead. Glad I sorted the heating in there as well, so I can work in all weathers, despite the ambient temperatures falling in the not too distant future. Not much in the way of progress save for fitting the secondary loom and battery box (using four ACCU M4 x 8mm marine grade stainless steel button head socket bolts - torqued to 3Nm), fitting the voltage regulator and tidying up the wiring for acceptance of the frame. As with all Panigales, one step is predicated by the previous one, so I'm at an impasse until parts return. Starter solenoid stainless steel socket cap bolts (M6 x 10mm - Pro Bolt) torqued to 4Nm Voltage regulator fitted (RaceTi titanium flanged torx head bolts) M5 x 20mm, torqued to 5Nm "Medusa's Head" back on the bike. It never ceases to amaze me how Ducati manage to pack all this wiring into such a small foot print. I bagged the excess branches for now until the frame is fitted, which makes life a lot easier.
