1200 DVT Rear Brake Now Awesome

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by knightrider, Oct 13, 2024.

  1. So, as we all well know the rear brake has been pretty poor and goes from ppl saying its good to most saying I have no back brake at all, so I went through ALL procedures to make it as good as I could from bleeding regularly to bleeders on the abs unit and tbh all were temp improvements but not long lasting... so, I contacted Hell for a new rear brake line and they advised me that my line was already braided so it wouldn't actually make much if any difference to my shitty spongey rear brake, So as it was pointing towards heat from the engine effecting the brake fluid I looked at the line and figured the line from the rear brake reservoir to the master cylinder was rubber and as this ran next to the engine could be the weak link, I looked for some heat insulation and bought some. I had to remove the pipe from the bottom of the rear brake reservoir and feed it down to the master cylinder. I did heat shrink both ends and also bleed the system with Motul 660F ( yes this might have made the rear brake better alone) but the rear brake is brilliant and even after cooking it on a 2 up tour over a 36 mile pass and got brake fade as i didn't let up on the rear brake as I've never had much use for it before it still worked perfectly after things cooled down. I've been running this now for 6 months and cant believe how its been and also how my riding has improved especially 2 up so just wanted to share after a good trial :upyeah: ( i got 10 and 12mm but 8mm sleeve would be the best fit)

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266492864828?var=566284250360
     
    #1 knightrider, Oct 13, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2024
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  2. Nice one. Any pictures please.
     
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  3. Sounds good. Would the 8mm ID sleeve go over the banjos prior to heat shrinking it? Can't recall how that line is terminated, no access to the bike ATM.

    Edit: just looked at parts a diagram. Of course, being un-pressurised, it's just spring clips over a rubber hose, so no banjos:upyeah:
     
    #3 Bumpkin, Oct 16, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2024
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  4. Brilliant post mate thanks a lot. I use the rear brake all the time and it’s the worst I’ve ever experienced on any bike. This could really make me love the bike even more. Many thanks.
     
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  5. Well done. That may just be the permanent fix.
    In the interim, I've had no issues with Motul 600 which has a much higher boiling point than regular DOT4.
    Yet, it's not as hygroscopic as the 660 stuff which has shorter bleeding intervals.
     
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  6. Just took a couple of pics to show the sleeve in place, if you need something more specific let me know

    20241016_180007.jpg

    20241016_180018.jpg
     
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  7. As was adding motul 660 I just drained the rear brake res and pulled the pipe from the underside and feed the sleeve down the line, i think I also undid the front foot peg so to get at the rear master cylinder just to make it easier and heat the heat shrink at both ends, looking back 8mm would be a better fit but now also thinking might be a bit harder to feed down if its a tight fit
     
    #7 knightrider, Oct 16, 2024
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2024
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  8. Im sure that the motul 660 has improved things but also the sleeve has added the length of time even that would need to be replaced :upyeah:
     
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  9. Honestly mate, Ive never been a heavy use rear breaker but when touring 2up I do use it alot, last year i just bleed the rear brake 2 days b4 my euro tour with the wife and after 4 days i had a spongy, rubbish brake and also no hill hold, which to me is essential when 2up full luggage :upyeah:
     
  10. Same here, 2 up with luggage and rear brake and, as you say, hill hold is a real benefit.

    Ordered the 8mm ID pipe ahead of your post re it possibly being a bit tight given the space. Will see how I get on. Have a box of heat-shrink so that's neaten up the ends.

    Ordered the same sleeve as you suggested and also a length of fibreglass lined fireproof sleeve too. Will see which one works best.
     
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  11. Im sure the 8mm will go on mate, I just remember as I started pulling the sleeve down it did fray at the end so by the time I got it into postion I just trimmed the end so it looked neater and then the heat shrink over hides the end anyway. Dont cut it until its all the into position and then cut it to length :upyeah: (if that makes sense)
     
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  12. That is an amazingly simple fix for a problem that’s bugged the DVT’s all this time, good work.
    I’ve been considering replacing and rerouting the whole rear brake line. This will save a lot of time and effort.

    Charlie, let us know how you get on with the 8 or 10mm.
     
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  13. Well, I know what my next 'upgrade' is! Thanks for the post
     
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  14. Just as an added note, when i did this i also removed the rear brake caliper and placed it on the top of the disc so the bleed nipple was at the top but im sure if like me you have tried, read every other solution out there so you'll know what I mean. i look forward to your results and feelings and hope you get things as good as I have :upyeah:
     
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  15. as said, apart from not being as asthetically pleasing, nothing wrong with leaving sleeve slightly "baggy" as ought to show marginally improved temperature-increase resistance over protection that is a snug fit over brake hose.
     
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