No, they’re bloody difficult to get off requiring lots of heat and suitable clamping devices that won’t damage the stanchion or the fork bottom.
As above, they seem to be held on by some sort of thread lock and they are very hard to remove, you need to use a lot of heat to even have a chance of removing them without damage.
I know it’s a Honda but this video gives an idea of what it needs to separate the stantions from the knuckle…
Thanks all, will leave them.be, have replacement forks for my 996 SPS and the bottoms are slightly different, only cosmetic,
I could have the legs re chromed ? It's the upper bits, stanchion (?) that are really bad, chap wants the top caps, kicked me into starting the restoration
If you can find someone to do the upper parts which the fork leg slides in/out of let me know. I searched and searched for someone to effect a repair on a set I had, the problem is there is a slight ribbing on the surface and if corrosion has got underneath the anodising, which is what happens, then when its removed it removes the ribbing underneath. I ended up buying a set of uppers instead. They come up on eBay frequently, often from Italian sellers which I appreciate may not be ideal for you with import duty and vat.
Thanks, got a second hand set so the uppers are scrap, especially as I've sold the caps to the chap in NI if we can agree the price
it's Part 4 Andrew, and although he describes the process, he doesn't include it visually which is a shame. You probably know, it's a very long process to bring up the heat slowly with a soft-ish flame and the clamping is not that straightforward either as ideally needs to be "cupped" with nice generous surface area.
I found this one on YT - don’t know why I couldn’t find it a few years back when I was first looking, probably didn’t use the right search terms . Anyway, hope it helps.
I've done it several times now. Get your self one of these and a decent propane torch and it's quite easy: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12408266...3Or1qMNnypDAiLLpi8xjx3B0Lw==|tkp:BFBM4LW4jt1k The Marzocchi leg I did was simply an interference fit: But the Showas I've done since had threads as well. Be careful as there is often a small hardly noticable grub screw as well. I clamp the stanchion in my big vise using the clamp linked above, then use a length of 1" steel bar through the axle hole to twist off the bottom casting after heating it up with my Propane torch. When fitting the bottom casting to a new Stanchion it's worth putting the stanchoin in the freezer overnight beforehand to shrink it down as well as warming up the casting before screwing them together.
This is what I use. It's called a friction ratchet, made by Gedore. They come with a insert that has a square drive and are a toothless ratchet. I have different size aluminium rings instead of the square drive and it works brilliantly on stanchions, damper tubes etc. Obviously lots of heat to soften the thread lock and a good vice to hold the fork bottoms.
I guess it's like any large bolt/thread that's been hanging around for sometime, some give in easily, some are a total pain in the arse.
