Mentioned on another thread that I had some issues with overheating on my way back from an MOT (less than a mile journey) where the temp gauge was indicating 110degC. Investigation found: - minimal coolant remaining (none whatsoever in expansion bottle) - nasty sludge instead of engine oil as below My gut feel is that it may be due to the water pump impeller shaft seal failing. A couple of years ago I fitted a second hand alternator case, complete with water pump impeller of unknown history. Looking at my original alternator case, I was wondering how to remove the pump shaft. See below, there is a tiny wire snap ring that needs to be removed first - the recess/access to get to the ring is very narrow, too narrow for my circlip pliers or any screwdrivers or scriber/bradawl. Does anybody have any advice for removing this clip please?
Did that include angled picks? these are some of the most useful tools I've bought. https://www.halfords.com/tools/gara.../rolson-4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-340885.html
Ricky, you need the dentist picks. They have a finer pointy bit and theyre surgical stainless, so fairly strong pointy bit. I used to have a set but lent to a 'mate', never returned. Dont buy cheap ones as the tip bends n snaps.
I've got two sets, one from Draper - quite easy to bend if you apply any force really and some that my mate gave to me ( he's married to a dentist and they were replaced by some new ones in the surgery ) that are to date incredibly strong in comparison
Small update on this. Still haven’t dropped the sludge out of my bike as I hadn’t been able to remove the water pump impeller snap ring on my old alternator case so had put the bike to one side. Dropped in to my old friend @Sev ‘s yesterday to sample his lovely coffee…just happened to have my alternator case in the footwell of my car. Basically, one needs to push the impeller shaft from the outside and it raises the snap ring above the washer (in yellow), allowing much clearer access to the ring to flick it out. Top stuff…no excuse now to stop me stripping the real casing off and replacing the seal assembly.
Doh! one of those real simple solutions that makes you think why didn't I even come close to figuring that out A bit like cryptic crossword clues...
We found out by complete accident - when we put the case on the bench, Sev noticed the the impeller shaft moved upwards and that allowed the access. Top spot @Sev !!
Small update… Today I finally managed to get around to pulling off the alternator case to move a step closer to sorting out this issue. Having previously worked out how to remove the water pump impeller snap ring by practising on my original casing [thanks @Sev !] (chain snapped some years ago and cracked it so replaced with s/h case, including water pump), I removed the impeller and found that the mechanical seal was in two bits and basically shagged. I am pretty sure that this explains how the coolant got into the crankcase. Decision now is: I have got a brand new seal assembly so do I fit that to the pump impeller, or do I just fit my original impeller with perfectly fine looking seal? Not sure how to remove the old knackered seal assembly off the old shaft yet.
In your shoes, if I just happened to have my brand new seal assembly & pump impeller, together with my original impeller with perfectly fine looking seal alternator case in the footwell of my car, I might pick up some donuts and take them to your favorite coffee stop to get some great advice...
Got a question about coolant: According to the workshop manual Section C.2: coolant required is Shell Advance Coolant or Glyco Shell 35-40% + water. Can anybody provide equivalent coolant that I can readily buy at Halfords? I am not looking for anything fancy, just normal coolant that will be compatible with the UK climate and engine type. Thanks!
The workshop manual is long out of date, use this, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14550870...MIibq-mtvPiQMVLJRQBh0COSDeEAQYAyABEgL1aPD_BwE, undiluted. Andy
Good Question.. and i don't know the answer but will also need to find out. Hopefully others will beat me to it. I'm sure you saw the spec for guidelines R:- GlycoShell Coolant GlycoShell Longlife Concentrate is a premium premium, organic acid technology coolant (OAT) and does not contain silicates, borates, nitrites, phosphates, or amines. This product offers extended change intervals (Up to 4 years foll owing a flush and fill) due to the OAT technology. This coolant represents the latest generation of Glycoshell coolants and is suitable for the newest automotive applications as well as extending the service interval on all other vehicles. https://shop.sclubricants.com/pub/media/pds/shell/GlycoShell-Longlife-Concentrate.pdf
I use G30 in my Seat, https://www.halfords.com/motoring/e...97*MTczMTE3MTU0My4xLjAuMTczMTE3MTYwMC4wLjAuMA.. it has a similar spec or you can go all out with G40. Andy
The glycol, as mentioned, is outdated now. Go with an OAT spec. It’s got a longer service life of 4 years and is much finder to the alloys etc. in the motors. It’s identified by colour, being pink ish in colour. The old stuff was blue or green. Halfords stock it as do most motor factors
