Hi everyone, i've just acquired a polished rear manifold and S pipe for my 97 916, can anyone tell me whether the manifold gasket is fitted dry or with a sealant like Hylomar blue?...and also the correct torque for the manifold nuts please. TIA...and happy new year to all!
No sealant needed, I've removed mine many a time and never had a leak. Can't see any torque figures in the manual (tighten 'till it strips then back-off 1/4 turn ) just tight enough will do, they're only 6mm IIRC.
No sealant, just dry, iirc the torque for the nuts is 23Nm don’t forget to apply copperslip or alumslip.
23nm sounds high for a 6mm nut? Would have thought about half (maybe 10nm?) but, I would just go with the feel personally. Edited to add; above post shows 10nm which sounds good to me.
I seem to recall it was 15 for the studs and 23 for the nuts, I’ll have to dig out a workshop manual. Certainly 23 isn’t to high for M6 nuts, rear brake calipers are that and they’re m6 as are triple tree nuts around fork legs. However, even 10-12 would be ok there, it’s not going to fall off, just need to cinch up against the gasket and seal it.
That's incorrect. The calipers are a M8 bolt, same as the triple clamps. Here's a good thread with all the factory torque specs, bolt/nut sizes and grease/thread lock specs: https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threa...settings-complete-list.53961/#google_vignette Either 9 or 10 Nm is recommended.
Had a go at removing the pipework yesterday, silencers came off okay, but trying to get the rear mid pipes off saw me giving up after an hour or so and leaving it for another day, after removing their 2 retaining bolts i couldn't see a way of budging them and they've probably been on since 1997!...i followed the Haines manual instructions for removal of pipes, is there a trick or easier way to get them off?
If you remove the manifold nuts, can you then remove the entire exhaust section from the bike? Then, on the bench, you can attack the joints that are stuck.
Yes i had thought of that but space in there is pretty tight and i'm not sure they would come out, i'll have another look at things later, thanks.
Can be tricky to remove and a long time fitted won't help, one reason not to use any sealant as that definitely won't help. Best to loosen everything off, probably even remove the entire system - good excuse to give it a good clean & polish.
Commiserations ydm, like removing injectors, there is no foolproof easy way if not been dismantled for a long time/ever. If you can't get the whole system off in one as suggested, then apart from un-ending patience, it's a case of soaking with penetranting spray and being inventive with your twisting, turning and rocking if possible often improved with the use of heat. It's a real test for your whole upper body, and might take two people as one pipe is hard to restrain while wriggling if only using your own two hands. Can you assemble it up and run it to get system hot? you can try soaking the joints as it cools and then attempt to get some swivelling movement on a joint while it's cooling down but obviously gardening gloves etc needed.
Removing the intermediate section is easier if you pull the rear header with it still connected. Just remove the spring from the manifold above the engine breather….heating the joints up to. A tapping stick helps as well
My mistake, they are M8, you’re right, I was guessing from memory, shouldn’t do that, should always check
Had another look today, but was getting a bit cold in my shed, i'll set up a heater in there for tomorrow...out of interest is the retaining screw that is bolted into the lower casing - part number 77910851A- a 7mm Allen socket head? , i tried a 6mm Allen key which was too small and 8mm is too big ,my initial thought was it was a rounded and worn 6mm but it doesn't look like its been rounded.
Are you sure you used a 6mm key? Asking because many allen key sets come with a 5.5mm key so, easy to mix up (no idea what a 5.5mm should fit). Mine definitely takes a 6mm key.
