Going to tackle the job over the weekend of clearing out the crud from the swingarm, I don't expect much as I cleaned it out about a year ago. However, I'm curious, is it worth refreshing the hub it's self with freshly packed grease? It's done around 25k miles, so I'd assume it needs some love, but I'm not going to shell out 500+ quid for a hub just for preventative maintenance Additionally, if I do repack some grease, I don't see any o-rings or similar on any parts sites, which I thought is odd as I'm sure the hub has 2 o-rings? EDIT - If curious, I'll be using Shell Gadus S2 V220AD 2 grease. It's my go to for most applications.
IIRC, it's not the eccentric hub that has the ‘O’ rings, it’s the rear caliper mounting plate. The hub bearings are ‘sealed’ but packing the outside location of the bearing isn’t a bad idea. Ducati state that the eccentric hub is not maintainable which is bollocks, I’ve rebuilt two large hub eccentrics without a problem except the double race bearing is designated by the manufacturer as an ‘automotive’ bearing which restricts its availability to high street bearing stockists. Bearings and seal work out at about £250. At 25,000 miles, I’d be inspecting the inner race of the double race bearing for excessive movement. Andy
This video is worth watching. It's a Panigale rather than a Multi but the eccentric hubs will be very similar. There are no O-rings involved except, as Android states, on the rear caliper mounting plate.
You can tilt the inner races a bit when in situ without removing the seals, it's enough room to get a syringe full of grease in the gap and pump some fresh stuff in there, I've done this to mine a couple of times over 53000 miles. Would obviously be better to strip the unit, clean, repack and reassemble but better than nothing.
Thanks for posting this question and to all those who have responded. Just done mine. This forum is brilliant.
I'm about to remove the rear hub also and my bike has around 43k miles on the clock. I think it may be time to change the bearings. I don't think the previous owner have ever done so. Could someone tell me the exact models of bearings I need to buy, and possibly what tool I would need to push the new bearings in place inside the hub? thanks for any input.
@Mike 999, the needle bearing is SKF RNA 4910.2RS and the double cage roller bearing is SKF BAH 0175 or SKF VKBC 20199. You will need a robust pair of circlip pliers. If you search this forum, there is plenty of information about how to do it. I put the hub in a sealable plastic bag and soaked it in boiling water, that was enough to release the needle roller bearing which then gives you access to the double ball bearing. Andy
Thank you so much Andy. You're always full of really useful and great informations. Thanks for taking your time to reply.
@Android853sp for world leader FYI - Here is the bearing kit https://www.airebearings.co.uk/product/ducati-rear-hub-bearing-kit-bah0175-rna4910-2rs-58x72x4-5/
I'll be taking off the rear hub this week. I had to use a 1700nm gun to remove the rear 55mm bolt and the front one on the sprockets. insane. My Multi has 43k miles on it. I'm wandering if it's worth changing the bearings even if they feel fine, just to be on the safe side.
I'm changing my bearings as the swingarm is out for other work and like you, it's at that mileage where it doesn't hurt.
I don't wanna abuse anyone patience but to avoid buying and then having to return the wrong item, could someone point to me the correct bearing removal and installation kit for the front wheel and rear hub? Preferably from Amazon but any suggestion is welcome. Thanks.
I've only serviced the rear hub, not changed the bearings, However, the Sykes Pickavant circlip tool is something that's very helpful in getting that huge circlip off. As to the front wheel bearings, I changed those on my Pikes Peak late last year. A reasonably long and thin drift is needed for removal. That and patience working around the bearing gently tapping it out bit by bit so as to drive it out as straight as possible. There's a cut-out in the bearing spacer on one side to provide access to the inner race of the outgoing bearing. I ground down an old flat bladed screw driver for this purpose so that it would gain decent purchase though this cut-out. Once the one bearing is out the other one is easier as you have better access with the spacer removed. To insert the new bearings I bought a cheap set of bearing drivers from Amazon.
A heat gun on the front hub makes life easier for removal and replacement, get it up to over 100 degrees, which takes about 5 mins per side, and the bearings come out, and go back in, much easier.