I've tried to look around the forum but I can't find a definitive answer. I've installed a new chain Rk 530 zxw. I've measured the links on the chain from outside plate to outside plate with a veneer and made an average. From 22.9 to 23.6 master link is 23.4. Pushed the pins inside the master link to match that average distance between the plates of the master link. But when I rivet the pins, they will not go over 5.3mm in diameter, while looking on the RK website for this kind of chain, they should be 5.5 to 5.7. Now I'm wandering if I should have pushed the plate in more, to expose more pins and hence have more metal to flare. But I also was wary of creating a tight master link. the measure of the pins before rivetting them was 5.05 mm. Can the plates be pushed back in a little more even with the pins rivetted, and then flare them more? or is 5.3 enough and I should not worry about? or shall I buy a new master link a redo it all? as usual thanks to everyone for your input.
Looks fine to me. As long as it's not tight, any pin distortion will stop them retracting, there is very little sideways force.
Looks fine. The "jokes" that enter my mind about chain reaction - chain gangs - splitting hairs (and links) - showing a bit of metal - etc - are just unhelpful, so I'll shadup my face and go to London!
From this file looks like I need to push the two plates just a little more in to reach the correct specifications. I'm wandering, if the chain tool has enough space in the groves, if I can push them now that I have already rivetted the ending of the pins, to then rivet them more. Technically, there should be nothing stopping the plates to get closer to each others, cause the pins inside the links should be still straight.
Agreed, always best to order extra master links as once you've peened/mushroomed (dependant on pin type, I go for the solid pin type and peen them using a tool) it's kind of backwards to try and adjust further as you could introduce more problems than you'll solve. THIS is the tool I use on my DID chains which have solid pins, it works brilliantly and is cheap for the odd job.
As a footnote I don’t measure the length of pin protruding. I ensure the plates on the soft link are exactly the same width between the sides as each link adjacent.
I've used one of these (albeit a decent copy) with success on a number of occasions. It has a stepped piece to ensure that the right length of the pin is exposed.
This is why I buy the cheap tool I linked above. I consider it a consumable per chain replacement to reduce the risk of warping or bolt fatigue as they specify a certain torque value to correctly peen out the pins. Over the years I've tried various tools and the above cheap one wins in every aspect. I strongly recommend it.
I don’t think the flare is the problem. The plate has not been pushed on far enough if you look at the vertical photo of the chain.
looking at your last 2 photo's your link plates look like theyre just sticking a little further out then the rest of the chain plates, personally I'd push the plates tighter a tad and flare the link pins a bit more. for me I always go off the split link plates looking inline with the rest of the chain and then I measure the end of the flared pins and make them match the rest of the pins in width flared.
Thanks everyone for your replies and help. I did indeed order a new master link and on the second try everything went smooth. The link is pushed to match all the other links to 22.7 and the rivets are 5.6mm. The master link moves freely in the chain.
