Making steady progress today, I'll update lter this evening. Hit my first road block though, probably due to my limited tool box. Any tool combos that help getting the tensioner pulley nut off the vertical cylinder? @4nDreW_Multi - I'll get back to you on this one shortly.
some info https://lnx.desmodromico.com/motore-dvt-testastretta-dime-camme-e-pulegge/ https://lnx.desmodromico.com/cambio-cinghie-dvt/
Yes, I already saw there articles, but they talk about a TDC Locking Tool for a 1200 DVT with a other tool part number, different from a 1260 engine, because the drive pulley does not align in same position with reference on clutch cover. If anyone could send me all the measurements of this tool (in millimeter please) I would to make it. Many thanks.
New belts on! Apart from the tricky access tensioner pulley nut on the vertical belt, I think it went smoothly enough. In my humble opinion... The cam locking tool is worth every penny. It effectively only fits onto the cams when they are in the 100% correct position for the belt change in combination with horizontal TDC compression. I've turned the engine over by hand 10+ times and everything looks and sounds good. I'll do some final, final testing in the morning before getting the cam covers, rad and fuel tank on so that I fire the engine up. Looking at my valve clearance numbers I'm moving towards the limits on a few of them. Thanks to @West Cork Paul for the info about shims generally moving in a common way. I'll think how to proceed with this one... I may just plan to do them all to ideal spec after summer.
The TDC locking tool for the 1260 DVT is around £50.00. Is it worth the time and materials to make one???
Ok Maybe the TDC could buy, But most important for me It is the TDC Control Gauge, Thanks, Have a good Sunday.
Before removal of the rings degrease them and use a permanent marker to color the top side, so you know how to put the back. easy peasy
You don't need it, just mark up the old belt versus the 3 pulleys, copy the marker point exactley to the new belt. No rocket science.I only use the crank turning tool and degree disc. Done a Desmo job already three times on a 1260.
As I mentioned before you only need the crank turning tool and the corresponding degree disc. Markup 270 degrees on the disc to be sure to stay always within the 270 degree's when putting the horizontal or vertical cilinder in TDC. This way you don't need any extra tools.
Thanks for your reply, since it is first time that I make this type of work, I ask the measurement of TDC Gauge to be secure that nothing moves when you loose the belt tensioner and when you turn the engine and you can securely center the correct TDC (different I think of half teeth from 1200 DVT because the clutch mark is not perfectly aligned to pulley mark, right?), but if you confim that only need the turning tool with degree wheel, better. To rotate the belt tensioner before tightening, which tool you used? You used it only also for checking and eventually changing valve shims? Where did you buy replacement shims? Do you have pics or tips for this job? Also in private message. Have a good day.
First, do not start this job before you fully understand the system. Before I startet I searched the internet and fora to get information like here: https://www.ducati.ms/threads/dvt-b...pointers.729395/?post_id=7059928#post-7059928 There is a lot of info on the internet. When you take of the belts be sure to only move the crank in the mentioned 270 degrees (between TDC vertical and TDC horizontal) Never go over it so only turn CW and CCW. Just use a chopstick (or whatever) to feel the TDC thrue the sparkplug holes. I use a circlip tool to turn the belt tensioner, use a torque wrench to securely fasten the nut(s) When changing the belt I think it is advisable to also check the valves, I bought the shims at the local dealer but you can also order them directly from Ducati online.
