I had my Multi MOT'd yesterday and it would seem my rear pads are quite worn. I have always used the rear brake and it seems the PO must have done so too The manual suggests its a simple case of pulling the retaining pin, dropping the pads out and putting new ones in ... call me cynical if you like, but that all sounds a bit simplistic. Not least because the caliper is in the middle of the wheel and looks a total pig to get at... Is it as simple as suggested, or do I need to get the caliper, wheel off etc ? Fankyou
When I did mine I took the wheel off which gave a lot more access to the two retaining bolts and ABS sensor. Then it’s easy peasy.
Sorry for the slight hijack but can I ask how you get the rear wheel off at home as the rear nut is done up so tight. Ie I don’t have a compressor air gun etc?
You buy a 55mm Impact socket and a battery/electric Impact gun, I'd suggest with at least 450 Nm torque and You're done.
Michel: There is a thread on forum about torque guns. Electric and batttery options. The thread also includes links for said guns and impact sockets. Up to 450nm is for removal of rear nut. 240nm +/- 10nm, to tighten. I always torque to 230nm on my wrench which a Halfords Advanced, about £95. And, If you are a paid up forum member, don't forget to use your Halfords discount card. I think the wrench ended up costing me £78. Off top of my head. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand...-advanced-torque-wrench-model-300-488729.html
Thanks for the reply guys. I better put my impact gun batteries on charge then I thought it all sounded a bit simplistic in the manual...maybe OK on new bikes where everything is free.
I select first then ratchet the rear brake and get a big fuck off breaker bar if you don't have the rattle gun. Biggest problem is finding a torque wrench at reasonable cost that will adjust to the required torque. Found mine by pure luck on gum tree from a retired engineer. TB
This is what you would see if you could look up from under the swingarm. This is what you see when you take the rear wheel off. This is what you would see if you could look down from under the seat. If you could get the old pads out, the pistons pushed back and the new pads in without taking the caliper off the swingarm mounting points, you would be a better mechanic (with much smaller hands) than me. Andy
@Android853sp - that's the rear brake caliper for a 2010-2014 model. The DVT models (2015-2017) have a larger rear disk and a completely different type of caliper (two pistons on one side). See photos from DVT (2015) workshop manual: It's very easy to change the pads with removing the rear wheel or caliper. It's also easy enough to remove the caliper and clean it up and lubricate the sliding mounts. I'll add some more photos in a minute.
Beginning to lose the plot, thank you for the information. I have had a torrid time with the rear brake on the Diavel which looks like it is very similar to the DVT but saw on Bike Torque Racing’s catalogue, the caliper in my picture is supposed to fit the Diavel .... which it doesn’t ...... but turns out it’s the same as my first gen Multistrada. The Diavel caliper had to come off to be rebuilt but I did find the pin that the secures the one end of the pads, was seized which would have been a challenge if the caliper had remained on the bike. Every day is a school day, even Sunday Andy
Does the retaining spring plate sit in the middle? Can’t seem to get it to lock in place. It just moves and falls about.
It only stays in place once the pin is pushed through. It’s a bugger to get the pin back through as the spring has to be pushed down in the middle to line it up. The act of pushing the middle down, which is then held down once the pin eventually goes through, splays the ends and tensions the spring in place.
swapped mine with sintered pads recently on my 2016 dvt and as above its really easy to do, long nose pliers to pull both clips out the pull pins, drop pads but before that I pulled on caliper to push pistons back in, new pads in along with pin and clips, pump pedal and off you go!
I believe @Tally is talking about the rear caliper not the front ones. Perhaps I’m doing it wrong but I’ve never found it easy to get the pin back through, really need 3 hands.
yes I’m talking about the rear caliper too buddy, it’s a few mins job so easy to do on the later 1200s dvt anyway.
Yep, you’re right, I’m trying to find his other post now because for some reason I had in mind the single piston rear caliper with a single pin and those difficult wire springs the pin goes through which are a bigger to push in single handed whilst holding the caliper.
