I absolutely will do later today. Know that it’s about -5C here so I hope the poor bike isn’t too angry at being woken up. Ha ha. Back with you in a few hours. Thanks for letting me help as it will also push me to engage more proactively with the OBDScan tool and learn something. Best, Dave G.
Apologies for my ignorance but this is all I can get. Readings jumping between these values. Regardless of if I manipulate the throttle or whether the bikes running or not. Other readings don’t seem right either. Like coolant temp just sits at 78c even as the bike is warming up and the dash temp readout is rising.
Very sorry for my struggling to learn. But I’ll tell you the bike is 2016 PPE. So 1200DVT. Each of the 4 readings I’m getting for tps flash between two values. The low values are 2.0 to 4.5 ish and the high values are 25 to 40 ish.
APS sensor track 1 flashes between 4.4971 and 160.7373. Track 2 flashes between 4.4971 and 20.7520. APS opening percentage also flashes two values but closer together. 79.9683 and 79.9927. All completely strange to me. I use diag tools on cars all the time, from stuff like BlueDriver apps to the full Toyota factory Techstream software. Never had this kind of wierdness before. Ha ha. Thanks for your patience. Dave G.
Is there something special I need to do to get the bike to stay in a sort of “ignition on, engine not running” state to get the OBDStar to read right? I don’t know how to do that on the ‘16 PPE. Again, sorry for my ignorance. Dave G.
@Hipine thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort. Firstly photo size. You’ll have to reduce it before uploading it, there should be an option in your phone to select original, large, medium, small and the phone will reduce the size. I think there’s a 2Mb/photo file size limit. Secondly, if you have the bike turned on, but not started, with the diagnostic tool attached, you should be able to scroll to the TPS voltage readings set out in my post above. They should be about 0.5v on track 1 and 4.5v on track 2. At this stage I just need to know the static values (don’t open the twist grip) for the TPS sensor and Adaptive TPS sensor readings. TIA
Weird, clearly the high value can’t be 25-40v Likewise, 160v is just not feasible. Likewise 20.75v isn’t feasible. Again, weird. Opening reading should be 0% or as close as makes no difference, rising to 99-100% as the twist grip is opened. All very strange.
Yeah. Exactly as I’d thought. Okay. I’m not crazy then. Sorry I’m not able to help more quickly and directly. I will keep at trying to get it sorted here ASAP
I won’t bore you with the details but suffice it to say I leaned a LOT today! Ha ha. See attached photos and see if these make sense. Just for your entertainment, here are some tips for knuckleheads like me. 1-make sure your key battery is good and if not, when you replace it, be sure to press the button inside the fob to reactivate the key. 2-make sure the obdstar unit has your current WiFi password (settings-system settings-WiFi- shows On, and Connected to your network 3-make sure you’re logged in to your account (“my info” is populated in the “personal center”), if not, either login or create an account, whichever is required, by googling “register obdscan” and folllowing directions on the OBDStar page that’s available. 4-If you only have a “Demo” button and no “MOTO Diag” button available, then tap the Upgrade button and download all available upgrades 5-connect the obdstar to the bike using the correct port and adapter cable (2016 PPE was obvious, some older bikes are not) 6-turn on the ignition, tap MOTO Diag, and follow the prompts after some stuff like that I was able to reach the screens pictured after confirming that the unit was now indeed connected to the bike and not just presenting garbage Demo information. my typing all of the above is just evidence of how deeply I trust you guys to not immediately ban me for stupidity. Somehow I knew that I needed a button other than “demo” to press, but when I’d try to update, the unit would report no updates available or such messages likely because login or WiFi info was bad. The obdscans issues were as deep seated as my own! again many thanks for your forbearance in slowing me to work through all this. Now maybe we can talk about TPS parameters. Oye! Dave G.
Hey Paul, I can now speak with reasonable confidence to your original question and say that OBDStar doesn’t report any Adaptive values for TPS voltage for the 2016 MTSPPE. Only the straight voltages for the two tracks on each bank. Probably not very helpful to you after all, but very helpful to me in being forced to work through all my teething pains now. Perhaps the “adaptive” values are somehow learned by the bike and used in managing the additional cylinder that’s fed by each TB? Just a SWAG. I had another thought that “adaptive” might have something to do with the ride mode selected, but I’m not sure if that makes sense or not. My bike only has a couple “adaptive” things in the ECU. I hope at some point I’m able to actually return the favor of your patience and assistance. Dave G.
That’s brilliant Dave @Hipine thank you very much. Ignoring, for the moment, the adaptive values displayed on the other bike, your TPS sensor values for Tracks 1&2 on each throttle body are as expected, on the other bike they’re not. Thank you for your time and effort
Are those “tracks” opposite ends of a resistive path with voltage center fed through a slider? Do they change when we move the throttle tube? If they do it would seem easy enough to see if something is mid-named in the OBDStar by watching how they change together, and maybe unplugging one. Good luck there Paul! Say the word if I can ever actually help. Or if you’re ever in Denver and looking for a pint. Ha ha! All the best, Dave G
They’re actually 2 potentiometers within the TPS, reversed to each other, thus one starts low one starts high and the voltage moves in its respective directions as the throttle valve rotates from closed to open on its spindle. It’s measuring the movement of the throttle valve spindle. S735 & S736 in this diagram The ECU has to see a combined voltage of 5v from the 2 of them all the time as a check & balance.
By the way Dave @Hipine what version of software do you have on your OBDStar? Having gone through what you had to do to get the readings yours will be the latest version. I can check the one I’m helping someone with is also at the latest version.
