Who subscribes to this idea? Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
I wonder why the Manufacturer who spends millions of £ on development would tell you to run it in in the wrong manner ? I can't understand why so many question the advice from the Dealer and the Manufacturer regarding this process. For me I always followed the advice from the handbook and not "someone" on the internet. Never had any engine problems in 35yrs of riding, long may it continue. Davy
Manufacturers don't always get it right. Even Ducati. 916/996 rockers anyone? Header tanks ditto. 1098/848 radiators. Regulator/Rectifiers anywhere on Ducatis. Oil supply square case engines, Darmah et al. Engine mounting bolts? Swingarm main bolts? Cush hub rear rubbers backing out and eating your swingarm? Belts every two years or 6000 miles whichever comes first? I bet you've changed your clutch cover and pressure plate........and your tyres from the recommended ones.....and....and......if Ducati always get it so right why do you think you can improve it? The list goes on............................ Remember the old adage - rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men.
I won't mention any names but and old Ducatisti member used to swear by some of the methods above, ran his 1098 in this way 3 years down the line bottom end destroyed itself, needless to say after informing the world on how he ran his bikes in via the Internet Ducati UK weren't very forthcoming with any goodwill gestures.
This is possibly design issues / manufacturing defects / faults / wear and tear ? I didn't say manufacturers never got it wrong but why do none say buy your new bike and run it flat out, that's the way to run it in ? Must be a reason surely, or perhaps my logic is way off
Logic does seem to be way off then. Funny about that Freak, ran mine in that way, it was sweet as a nut, even 27k and six years down the line. Only problem came with the blocked radiator and restricted coolant flow that made it lunch the cambelt tensioner pulleys, not once but twice. That is a known 1098 problem.............. New rad, given under coersion by the dealer solved that one. Niven - Design issues, manufacturing defects and "faults" are what Ducati have clearly got wrong in those instances you idiot.
do about 100 miles moderate. then just do repeated to the red line acceleration as hard as you can. it seals the piston rings well and bikes ran in that way often make 5 horse + more
Ye, my logic and all manufacturers I guess... Idiot....very nice and constructive. You are the one who brought up design issues in a post about running in a new bike and I'm an idiot ?
His method of run in is fine don't know about ditching the oil after first 20 miles. Thought that all engines are run up at the factory not just started and stopped but brought up to temperature and run up and down through the gears. Never really understood the 600 mile run in for modern engines. Has anyone dropped the oil out of their bike after the first couple of hundred miles and if so what did it look like.
My Jap Multis didn't really seem to need a 'running in' period, although I admit I kept the revs down at a moderate level for about 200 miles. My Guzzi wasn't anywhere near loose at 10,000 miles though, and that had been blatted up and down the rev range after the first 1500 miles. Ducati? Can't comment on a new one...........but if the engine had been rebuilt, I would definitely be careful with it............ AL
My freshly built big bored 1037SPS was run in on the dyno. Made good numbers too. 3 years on, with only track abuse, and it's still smooth and oil tight. Love it.
If race bike I'd give it the beans from the off. As new road bike, like I've just bought, I've pretty much followed manf for first 600 miles as I don't want any wriggle room of something breaks in the couple of years I'll own it
I didn't run my 54 plate civic in as well as I could, now it uses a little too much oil. My mistake, my problem....until I sell it :smile:
