Hi all, I've only just joined the forum as I've recently picked up a 1200s touring (which is awesome), it's not my 1st Ducati as I've also owned a 748 in the past, I've also got an M900 1997 which I've fully restored last year. I came across the forum and so far have found it to be really useful, it seems really well laid out. The issue I'm having is undoing the rear nut! I bought the proper socket from Ducati but can't shift the bolt (I think the Hulk did it up last)! Any reason why it's not shifting? Just in case I'm missing something? cheers in advance Steve
It's just very tight probably. Think the multi is the same as the 1098 and it's at 230nm or something like that. First time i did mine on the 848 i thought i would snap something and that is a lower torque than the 1098/multi.
You'll need the correct socket and a long bar, at least a 100cm. Someone to stand on the back brake....assuming it's working. Then someone strong/heavy (AKA fat) to operate the long bar...try a drayman or a local aircon fitter :biggrin:
My bike came with an Oberon alloy socket for the rear wheel nut but when I came remove the rear wheel for a tyre change it was absolutely useless. With the help of the guy in the bike shop I used the socket with a 100 cm bar and couldn't shift it. We then added a 1.5 m length of scaffold tube to that and two of us still couldn't shift it, and the 1/2 square hole in the Oberon socket started to round out. I had to give up at that point. I then borrowed a Motomfg steel socket from a friend. I took it to a tyre depot where they got it loose with a huge feck-off air powered impact driver that they usually use for truck wheels! I took a LOT more than 230 nm to get it loose. I promptly bought a Motomfg socket for myself.
A very long bar and a forged steel socket and a mate on the rear brake and put bike in 1st. Thats my procedure.
Thanks guys, was hoping that was all it was! My 748 was a piece of phish compared to this bad boy! right where's those steel toe cap boots and my scaf pole?
said this before buy cordless impact gun, my snap on gun will take of bolts my pneumatic gun wont touch. put it on yer crimbo wish list.
My mechanic in work complained about this last time I had a tyre change. In the end he had to heat the nut up and put so much pressure through the socket that it actually left a small lip on it but it came off ok eventually. Said he tried everything he could think of before resorting to heat? must just be the torque?
Funnily enough Im having the same problem at the moment..... it should by 176Nm on my 998 - it came back from a dealer service in summer, and neither a 200Nm rattle gun, or a 1m breaker bar with a scaffold pole extension will touch it - Christ knows what they have torqued it to...!
Had a look briefly at this tool but being Snap On looks expensive. Can anyone recommend a cheaper make of impact gun that would do the job.
Don't let the garage tighten it up with a rattle gun after the wheel has been off, make sure they torque it up correctly. My 748 is torqued to 176nm and I can undo it with one hand on the bar, never had a problem in 3 years. Steve
totally, never tighten with gun. think one of the tool supply company's do a mains supply for fraction of cost. dont know how powerful tho.
Well my 200Nm 18v Rattle gun wouldn't touch it.... borrowed a compressed air snap on rattle gun off my local garage, and it came straight off..... guess you get what you pay for.... mind you I reckon I must have loosened it :wink:
Ok searched this forum and the nerd and the Clark CEW1000 impact driver for under £60 seems to do the job. Now on my Christmas list.
Well I bought one of these two days ago and it still didn't touch the bolt! Ended up buying the longest breaker bar from machine mart and FINALLY IT GAVE WAY! verdict is get the longest bar you can, job done Steve
On my previous bike, a Diavel with same size nut, the home fit tyre guy I use had a high quality alloy type socket and used an air wrench with huge compressor on his van! It took a fair ol' hammering with wrench before it shifted, but since he'd torqued it correctly, the next time I managed to undo it with a 1metre bar with 3/4" drive and socket. To initially 'crack' the nut, I had someone sat on bike on ground with rear brake applied as I found I could get more leverage with tyre in contact with ground as well, avoiding any effort being lost through the DP padock stand. scarily, the official Ducati manual for Diavel say put rhe bike in gear! I am a big/fat guy and can be hired out at a reasonable charge LOL!
Breaker bars are your friend. Cheap too so its silly not to have one in the toolbox. Wheels nuts (on anything) should never be done up by anything other than a torque wrench and a socket.
