Does anyone have any experience of this. The shock is generally in good condition but it has a few chips. I like to keep things original and if I need to fix anything I like to do it myself. I first sanded the chips/small rusty bits and used Hammerite smooth yellow. It was not very good, it did not take very well. I could be guilty of not leaving long enough but it stayed soft for about a week. Then I etch primed ready for some cellulose. Sprayed a bit on a test piece and I think it will need 20 coats to cover the grey primer. Ok not the best move using grey primer. I have read stuff about the paint flexing and cracking. Also many threads say powdercoat. I am not that keen on powder coating. I have the belief if chipped it will corrode underneath and lift, this may be unfounded and I may have to conceed it's the way to go. So has anyone fully painted or powder coated a spring with no problems over time. I think I now need to just give it someone to sort. Cheers Gaz
I've had a few Ohlins springs powder coated yellow in the past, and although not a perfect match for the original yellow, they turned out nice and have held up well! Powder coating is the only way for them IMO.
If you truly wanted to paint a spring by spraying it then it would ideally require the use of a a spray gun and then you can add a flex agent to the paint if you are concerned that it is likely to flake off. From my experience of spraying I doubt that it would anyway. You really only need an etch primer on alloy or fibreglass and on other materials where you suspect the strata requires it to bond properly. Cellulose is also not the best paint to use, an expoxy based paint is better and most tinned spray paints are synthetic of some sort these days.
Just to add I also use powder coat. My experience with it is Yes the surrounding metal will corrode underneath at a chip if left for a long time and the surrounding PC lift. All I usually do is clean around the chip with some emery and paint over the spot, as long as water can't get it in the surrounding powder coat will be fine John
Thanks chaps for your input. Red 998 I wonder if you could expand on your comment of why cellulose is not the best paint to use. Is it for this application or in general. Looks like I will have to make a compromise and powder coat it. On balance it seems the best option. Will try and add some pictures and info on colour chosen. Cheers Gaz
NOT NECESSARILY SO nELS. iVE A SET OF CAR ONES AND THEY WORKED FINE FOR ME TO DO MINE. DAMN CAPS :biggrin:
Cellulose is a fairly soft paint and hardens through evaporation and no chemical activation. It therefore takes a much longer time to dry and remains softer overall than 2 pack paints. It's not as chemically resistant either. If it's in a can are you sure it is cellulose? because cellulose is normally now only available for spraying using a gun
I remember it coming off ok. It's a total strip down so a bit more room. I think I compressed the spring on the bike and put some really big tie wraps around it as tight as I could. Then took it off and the nuts came off ok. Then cut the tie wraps. Possibly when the spring was off I had a big G clamp to hold it while I cut the Tie wraps. On the Cellulose I also thought it was not available but a local paint place seems to put it in cans and said it was Cellulose. I wear a half mask double filters but if you think some other type of paint is more suitable/safer for home use I will use that. I did not really want to get into using a clear coat and wanted to use something that gave a good gloss and that I could sand down and polish WHEN I messed it up. Anyway here is a before picture.
^^ I doubt in that case it is cellulose but some sort of synthetic paint and probably not acrylic. Cellulose is more volatile than two pack paint and two pack often contains Isocyanate which is dangerous if inhaled over long periods, it can destroy lung tissue, this happened to a member on the old Ducati forum because he didn't wear a mask. A full air fed respirator should be worn to spray any two pack but a decent mask and a lot of space for fumes and spray to dissipate should be safe enough. Personally I would use something that is more chemical resistant, a good can spray is Hammerite smooth as it does resist chemicals and is very durable. Check out a RAL colour chart for a colour that might match your spring more closely. RAL colours are industry standard and very often used in powdercoating. They should be available for can insertion at a good motor factors\paint supplier. RAL Color Chart | www.RALcolor.com
Powercoat it, Triple S powder coatings in Bingley, will cost you about £15. By the time you've paid for all your paint etc it will work out cheaper and hassle free.
Right will check to see exactly what paint it is next time I am there. Yes I have heard of the RAL and BS numbers. I have a local powder coaters so will go there. Already spent £20 on paint so lesson learnt. As I said I did try hammerite smooth out of a tin but stayed soft for quite a while about a week and when sanded and wiped with thinners it came off. Thanks for all comments. Cheers Gaz
