new dash for 748/TLR project?

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by jay26, Dec 26, 2013.

  1. Have you got a degree……..:biggrin:
     
  2. No, but I can be obtuse...:wink:
     
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  3. Hi Nelson

    I am about to go for a Translogic for a Guzzi I'm refurbishing, I looked at the Motogadget but discounted it on size, it appears to me awfully small, more suitable for a custom.

    Although I've never seen the Motogadget dash in the flesh, I am willing to bet its top quality I have a few of their products and the quality of everything is superb, but it comes at a premium price

    John
     
  4. Jay,more piccies please!!
     
  5. Ok ill start from the beginning.
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    strip down started in September 2011.
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    then after buying a TLS engine i changed my mined (i do that a lot) and found a TLR engine instead that had a doggy 2nd gear.
    so the work began on that.
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    I replayed all bearing, piston rings seals, gaskets, selector forks,oil pump and a few gears.
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    All the clearances were check after fitting new shells.
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    Next was to machine the flywheel down, a total saving of over 600 grams.
    All the scissor gears were removed as well from the cams, this weighed in at over 400 grams, if I remember rightly.

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    #25 jay26, Dec 31, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
  6. why didn't you lighten the crank whilst you were at it…….it looks mahoosive
     
  7. Hi Jay

    Had 2 Vapour Dash's on my DRZ400SM both cracked their rear cases through Vibration!

    Fitted Koso unit and brilliant plus more functions and better speed sensor fitting :)
     
  8. Andy, I didn’t do anything major to the internals as the idea is/was that if the project goes well then next year when funds will allow and I get over the project build costs then I may pull the engine and fit a 1080 big bore kit, some cams and do the crank.

    Cobra I looked at the Koso clocks they don’t really do anything that took my fancy. I’m after the full LCD screen style.
     
  9. Engine going back together after painting the cases with HT crackle paint.
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    Painting the frame and swingarm and then starting to rebuild it at last, like all these projects the stripping apart all ways seems to take too long so it felt like I was getting somewhere when it started to go back together.
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  10. Nice project...

    Very interested in the engine installation...:upyeah:
     
  11. Engine mounting fitted, now before anybody says it I know the engine could do with going further back but this is the only way of doing it without cutting the frame about, something I did not want to do.I have weighed it almost fully built and its 166kg with half a tank of fuel and about 10 percent nose heavy.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]This way means that the engine mount between the heads go into the original frame mounts. I just had to lift the throttle body’s up slightly with spacers to clear the x brace.[​IMG]
     
  12. For me this has been the most difficult part of the whole build, the airbox.

    First I covered everything in plastic
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    then filled it with expanding foam to make a mould
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    and then covered that in fibreglass, it’s still work in progress but I’ve managed to get the tank to fit right now just need to tidy up the edges.
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  13. some excellent work great read
     
  14. Nice Job jay26 !
     
  15. Thanks flo,
    That’s the guy I bought the engine mountings off.
    He said they were a straight fit but I had reshape the n/s one completely to get the chain alignment right, but buying them still saved me a load of work.
     
  16. Genuine question …...Can i ask what your motivation was to go with the tl conversion…….im not asking why you do what you want to…..but given the below

    [TABLE="class: wikitable, width: 600"]
    [TR]
    [TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2"]Engine[/TH]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]996 cc, 4-stroke, V-twin, liquid-cooled, DOHC, 8-valve[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2"]Bore/Stroke[/TH]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]98.0 mm x 66.0 mm[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2"]Compression Ratio[/TH]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]11.7:1[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2"]Max Power[/TH]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]135 bhp (101 kW) at 9500 rpm[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TH="bgcolor: #F2F2F2"]Max Torque[/TH]
    [TD="colspan: 3"]78 ft·lbs at 7500 rpm[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]

    and that is really 998 999 territory…..a much simpler mod. i can't help but feel this was an alternative to the old 996 era and was a genuine improvement more power more reliability no flaky rocker issues….but that was 1999

    things have moved on and a 1098 or even 1198 is a much simpler mod and a hell of an improvement over the 996 era….

    As i say genuine question i am liking your work and its good to see the variations..
     
  17. I understand what you are saying and common sense would say go the 1098, 1198 route, but I wanted a new project after spending a few years finishing some classic restorations so I wanted to build something that was different hence the RS 250 seat unit, single side exhaust and possible a moto2 fairing if I can get one to fit.

    I want to end up with something totally different so that when people see it they aren’t sure exactly what it is. I just hope it is a good way.
     
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