Anyone done a pair of these at home.............. ? Some of the quotes I have got have been eye-watering (I've paid less for complete cars and bikes) so going to do this myself, not looking a complete walk through, just what to watch out for, what absolutely has to be replaced and what can be re-used and will need a list of special tools I need to get or make...?
Depends what you want from the rebuild. If you are into replacing the valve guides, it's really not a home job, though not impossible. When I looked at getting mine done a few years ago, I looked a the cost of the valve shims from Ducati and figured it would be cheaper to give the heads to CJS to do the work as like most specialists he has a stock of shims and would exchange them for the existing ones for half the price. When you multiply that by 16 shims, suddenly the cost of the work is a lot cheaper.
I'm hoping it's just the valve stem seals I need, at only 11K on it I would be pretty gutted if it needed guides as well. I did get a price from CJS of about £650 + carriage (not cheap from NI to Bristol, about another £50 on top) and that was if it didn't need stems......... My Ducati dealer quoted me £600 + VAT just for the parts and £1200 to do the whole job, but they would be replacing every seal, gasket, nut, retainer, etc..... As I didn't know its real history, it was Desmo serviced when I got it and had every gasket and seal replaced and again only 50 miles ago at a cost of £400 each time, so, "theoretically" if everything is put back exactly where it came from, it should not need any shimming and only the minimum of seals....?
I had one of mine rebuilt on My 916sp engine after it dropped a valve. I had to get Ducati Valve guides and seals but the engineering company sourced some Forged Valves all four cost me £133. They welded all the mess in the head and then machined it then fitted the guides for me and recut the Vlave seats. The engineering work and Valves cost me £400 then there was the cost of the Guides and seals from Ducati. I bought another set of Valves for the other Head. I have some before and after piccys somewhere if anyone was interested
I've done them myself a couple of times, from simple shim check & adjust to a full on snapped belt on the rev limiter, replace all valves, guides, everything. I didn't use any special tools except for cranked feeler gauges which aren't that special anyway. If you've got the goods to take the heads off I'm sure you can do the rest. Just make sure you collect all the bits of valve retaining half rings as they're bound to be in pieces, and I only changed gaskets if they leaked when it went back together, except the head gasket of course. Oh, and unless there's a trick I'm not aware of getting some of the valve springs back in can be a twat but again, it's doable. And I'm no trained mechanic working at a dealers, it's always been done with a Halfords tool kit in my garage. Small hands and patiences are the key.
Thanks for that, good to know it's not rocket science. I've been in many engines but not a Ducati, there have been a few raised eyebrows when I say I'm doing it myself, the issue of it needing 4 or 5 special tools held it back a bit but I think I will get a few just to make it easier. The fact that a local bike mechanic who is ex-Ducati doesn't work on Ducati heads was a bit off-putting but I have got past that when I look at the massive saving there will be. Do I just order all the parts from my local Ducati dealer or is there a recommended place I should go to?
Well, I was told by a friend at work today, that if you can find what you want from a dealers in Jersey, you don't pay the tax on it. 20% off That's how he orders his Harley bits from. No, I don't now, never have and never intend to own a Harley myself.
So, sent an email off to Bikers - Ducati Dealer Jersey 6 days ago asking if they will send parts to me here in NI, not a sausage back............. that's a bit shit............ and not inspiring any confidence, AND they are on the official Ducati Dealer website............ I wonder what Ducati would say?
Ducati would probably say, deal with your local dealer and stop trying to circumvent your countries tax laws. :wink:
I'm in Jersey next week. Want me to hurry them up? To be honest it's such a small shop and when I've been in there the staff aren't the most inspiring.
Mr R, thanks for the info, interesting and informative, much to consider......... One thing that has alarmed me though and that is the exceptionally short oil change interval you suggest. I use Motul 300V in it with an annual change but what is in there has done almost 4000 miles and would have been changed at the end of the "season" but I took it off the road when the oil burning started in September.
My twopenny worth, I feel 2500 - 3000 is ok on a quality full synth oil, short journeys less, I used for a long time mobil 1 with no problems but have recently changed to AMS dominator 10w-30 with equally as good results, I avoid the "bike" oils as I have the benefit of a dry clutch so need no friction modifiers or similar, also the AMS oil is heavy in the nasties that help engines and destroy cats, so all good. The other plus of early oil changes is I use it in the van! 2 for 1 deal!
OK, re-training time for me.............. will soon see if I have shagged the valve guides then........ Admittedly, the 916 is not got out of bed for less than 100 miles normally so there will never be any issues with heat cycle or condensation. I would normally change oil and filter as a pair on any motor I do, so, even at 2-3k changes do you recommend that it is still done as a pair on the shorter change? To be exact, I use Motul 300V factory Line 10W40 as recommended by Millsport Ducati and an OEM filter. I see deals for 300V and a K&N filter on-line, any thoughts on the filter or just stick with the Ducati item? It's just money, money, money, FFS. BTW, good idea there Spike, top-up oil for our elderly 406.................. I like it.
Thanks, but I might be back to having them done, need to check the ring wear and end gap and the valve guides I have been advised before I go any further.
What sort of oil consumption figures are you getting. i would say up to 1/2 litre per 2000 miles is ok, this is the sort of figure i get on a long blast abroad.
Maybe 1/2 liter in 500 miles, not gulping it in but too much in my opinion........ I think 10W40 is the heaviest 300V there is, didn't want to go heavier as I do not know enough about the requirements of these fickle engines yet. If the Mahle filter is a known and acceptable item I will get some in stock along with a bigger quantity of oil. Anyway, its pulled apart now so will check it out asap.
