MTS brake upgrade.

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by MJW61, Jan 20, 2014.

  1. Due to popular demand, well ANDYINUK anyway, here's a few pics of my caliper & rotor upgrade I did to the PP last November. Pretty bloody pleased with it I have to say. The rear is a revelation.

    The front pads by the way are Ferodo CP1's and the rear is a Ferodo Sintered. The rotors are BrakeTech AXIS Iron. Yep, a Sintered pad on an Iron rotor-works brilliantly. Yes they rust like ferk when wet and the rear is friggin' phenomenal

    Feel free to ask any questions.

    P.S. The lines were a one-off, custom made job by a mate in the US.

    . 1 and used and wet.jpg 2 rear used and wet.jpg 4.JPG 5.JPG 6.JPG 7.JPG 8.JPG 9.JPG 10.JPG 11.JPG 12.JPG

    1 and used and wet.jpg

    2 rear used and wet.jpg

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  2. It's the only thing that dissapoints me is the stopping power on the Multi... It's great for the type of bike, but a few times I have wanted it to be sharper.

    Over the standard stuff, would you say it's much of an improvement?
     
  3. Hoses look v close to tyre rhs. Wind could push them on to it maybe?
     
  4. :tongue: ......thanks Marty!

    ....keeping quiet about the Monoblocs!? :eek:
     
  5. Thanks for this it is really helpfull.I think I am ok for the front end but could you confirm disc and calliper make/model please and does that need any new lines or bolt straight on , cheers
     
  6. Sorry that should be rear disc and calliper !
     
  7. MJW, Nice job !
    I have been running Monoblocs on the front for a while now, with standard discs. That is superb too, so your Braketechs must be awesome. I used Venhill hoses and fittings. They worked a treat.

    Just about to fit a Brembo Gold Oro disk to the rear of my new bike (had it for a while, just not bothered to fit it to the old one).
     
  8. Rear caliper is the Brembo 84mm Forged 2-piece. Part # 120.A441.10. Motowheels US is the place. $550USD. Bolts straight on.
    Rear rotor is BrakeTech AXIS Iron rear w/black anodised carrier. Part # BTD245.1R. Buy direct from BrakeTech USA. $245USD. Bolts straight on too.
    Rear pads are Ferodo FDB2074ST Sintered.
    No other changes required.

    *I'll just add the caveat that my rear brake actually worked reasonably (actually very) well before this mod, so I had a well functional master cylinder to start with and so I can't claim it'll fix those with rear brake tales of woe.

    However the result is laugh out loud good. I can actually ride with confidence just using the rear at all times it's that good; obviously the front is still the master brake as required.
     
    #8 MJW61, Jan 21, 2014
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014
  9. Nice. I think I may have seen a pic of yours some time ago?
    Cant recommend the BrakeTech's highly enough. The feel with the CP1 Ferodo pads and the M4's combined with the Iron is just sensational. Sooo much more 'organic' feel to the brakes as an integral part of the bike now, not some distinct 'remote' action you did from moment to moment.

    Mate here is running the BrakeTech STAINLESS STEEL rotors on the front with the standard calipers (Ferodo Platinum pads) and is WELL impressed with the improvement....but as we have the M4's, even better again ;-)

    Be good for the other interested punters if you could provide info' about the Venhill hoses & fittings as this is the tricky part for the Monobloc conversion on the Multi. Were they over the counter, or they had template hoses ready or you had to specify...etc etc

    Upgrade that rear caliper when fitting the new rotor. Worth every cent.
     
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  10. The pics are deceptive, there's actually good clearance but they are closer. I've done a couple of thousand ks since fitted and no issues what so ever.
     

  11. Ah yes, the eBay M4 Monoblocs. Excellent value & power and good lookers too. However now that the M50's are readily available and not too pricey that would be the way to go now. That said, I'm VERY happy with the M4's.

    They offer a lot more feel than the OEM caliper but I wouldn't say more powerful but combined with the Iron rotors and the CP1 pads bloody fantastic. Super 'feel' and lush progressive power, wet or dry.

    The only 'thing' I will point out is they, the rotors, like a bit if warmth in 'em to bring out their best. 3-4 good applications of them (front and rear) in the furnace that is Oz is all that is required to get them up to temp. The hotter the better and due to the thermal properties of the iron they stabilise (heat) after a while so there's no nasty surprises if you're "on it", just constant feel/sensitivity/power.

    This applies to the brill' rear too.
     
  12. The rear has NO comparison. 10/10.

    The front is improved to quite a degree as per my other posts on this thread, however I know what you are saying, so as to "Holy shit that's power" upgrade - no.

    Try this; Buy the BrakeTech Stainless rotors (front) and change your pads to the Ferodo Platinum. Mate runs that combo and is VERY pleased with the improved result over stock. The OEM rotors are rubbish.

    If you want more, buy the M50 calipers ($975USD) and get the Venhill hoses (as per John W's post) and bolt that on.
     
  13. Sounds like a very dodgy practice to me. You must have total confidence in DTC!
     
  14. ST it's an description of how good the rear brake is. The use of the rear brake in this day and age is very underrated. As I said, the front are still the primary anchors.

    Don't get your point about the DTC mate? Que? Did you mean ABS?
     
  15. ABS stops the front locking up. DTC stops the rear stepping out or sliding by reducing the power. So you're right, it would be odd if you were braking hard with the power still wound on!! Unless you were attempting a power slide off road I suppose.

    But does the rear wheel have an ABS sensor? I didn't think it did - maybe because Ducati know you can never lock up the rear wheel because the brake is s***!!
     
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  16. Thanks ST, I've been wondering what those acronyms thingies were :). Haha. I'm quite conversant with what they do old son but thanks for the reminder. I've just turned 53 but KRAFT disease hasn't afflicted me yet ;-)

    Yes indeedy, the rear sure does have ABS. As you mentioned, those with shite rear brakes will never know it existed? Poor bastards.
    I can trigger it super easy now with the new setup if you stomp on it. I must try the rear with ABS off just for a laugh.
     
  17. I disagree ST.

    DTC stops the wheel slipping under power, ABS stops the wheel locking under braking.
    I can lock my rear brake with standard pads and disk, once it was bled with decent fluid.
    Yes there is a sensor on both front and back wheels. Even the non abs bike has the sensors as its also used for the DTC.

    MJW, the Venhill hoses can be fully made up, or as I bought, Powerhose Plus hoses supplied with lose ends. All you need to do is buy the right hose length and right fittings :wink:

    POWERHOSE PLUS

    I have the invoice somewhere with exactly what I bought. Infact I think I emailed it to Andy too, so maybe its on his site somewhere.
    I will look it out and post the details.
     
  18. Can't recall that you did John.....not that that proves anything! lol - have searched my mailbox with no results though.
     
  19. Finally got arounf to digging out the receipt for the hoses for the monobloc upgrade.

    All parts are ordered from Venhill.co.uk Motorcycle Braided Brake Hoses, Lines and Clutch Cables, which is a company in Dorking, Surrey. They are a long established and very well respected company for supplying cables and hoses in the off road world.
    Take a look here: POWERHOSE PLUS

    Parts required:
    1x 3H0450 - 450 mm Braided Stainless steel line
    1x 3H1850 - 1850mmBraided Stainless steel line
    2x Colour 7 - Black Hose colour selected for above
    1x 3/60081S - straight M10 Banjo 1/8bsp thread
    3x 3/60082S - 20 degree M10Banjo 1/8bsp thread
    The other thing you will need is a bunch of new copper washers to use on the banjo bolts.

    Basically the hoses are made up with threaded nuts, and you fit whatever ends you need. The pictures show which end type is required where. Pictures to follow in a moment.
     
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  20. Here you go, one of each of the calipers, and the end that connects to the abs pump.
    One of the advantages of the loose ends is that you can adjust them to the correct angle.
    The other thing is, the hoses have rubber sleeves. There are 2 on the short hose that I positioned either side to stop the hose rubbing on the mudguard. there are 3 (I think) on the long one which I positioned under the clamp on the front of the lower yolk, and under the metal hose clips on the trellis frame.
    Any other questions feel free to ask. They are off the bike at present, and the bike is in bits, so more pictures are not a problem.
    photo(1).jpg photo(2).jpg photo(3).jpg

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    photo(3).jpg
     
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