So on the way to work my clutch starts slipping, really badly. It did it last year when it got far too hot, but this time the temp was nice and low. On the way home I could hardly pull away. I took it apart to have a look at the plates a few weeks back and It was fine, even on my long day to France and back. So it dies and I have to get replacement plates from my local dealers. Pricey, but necessary. Anyway, so I take it apart and there appears to be a fair amount of material left on the plates, but as I have the replacements, i'll put them in anyway. Now I cant get the pressure plate back far enough. Its almost like I have one to many plates in the way. I followed the instructions in the workshop manual. Two steels, a friction, then the angled steel (facing outwards), the friction/steel until they're all in. You can also see that the springs are going too far back, but I think this is also down to the pressure plate being too far out. Before (you can see the top of the springs after
If the pressure plate isn't lined up with the drum correctly it won't go fully home. The OEM pressure plate has a small triangle next to one of the spring holes that should be lined up with the spring post that has a slot across the top of it. The pressure plate in the lower photo looks like it has two marks at opposite sides of the spring hole at the middle position on the left hand side. Perhaps that's the one which should be lined up with the slotted post?
+1 to Derek's advce. Also, what is the bearing in the pressure plate like. If the clutch rod is not spinning freely then it can create heat in the slave cylinder and cause the cluch fluid to expand. This will cause the clutch to slip.
if you are happy that the plates/pressure plate are assembled ok then it's possible that the slave has pumped up slightly and doesn't want to return for some reason. Easiest way to check is to carefully crack open the bleed nipple on the slave a small amount (obviously with a cloth or tube on it) and see if the pressure plate moves inboard at all.
Have you measured the combined thickness of the clutch plate pack? This is the crucial number that determines the adjustments and clearances so that everything can work harmoniously. Use the differing thicknesses of the steel plates to get the correct stack height. Start with getting the stack height right, then mess about with other things if this doesn't work.
As Chewy says , did you replace your pack like for like , or have you a race pack with extra plate/s . Is it a slipper ,that starts with a friction.
Whenever I've done this job I've given the instruction manual a fucking good ignoring as I've always found it confusing. And a direct route to slippy clutchville........ I remove all the old plates one at a time and slide onto a broom handle or similar so as to maintain sequence. Unwrapped the new pack and replaced sequentially like for like. My logic is thus:- It worked before assembled as it was so it'll work again.... The only variable here is the thinning/waring of plates and its simply a renewal process. Obviously as you go along check basket/tang clearance, hydraulic clutch action. Good luck and don't leather the wife and kids when you get mad with it
Ive just taken it apart again (pretty easy) and checked the stack width. The old stack is clearly narrower that the new. I would expect that anyway, but its like there is one to many plates in there. The basket has been changed, but the drum remains the same, so the official plates should go on without any problem., The only two solution I can see is at the start of the sequence, to only run a single steel instead of the recommended, of to put the old steels back in and see if that makes any difference
Matt when did you change the basket. Basket I got for my m900 is thicker so I had same problem as you did only way ot overcome is to have one steel plate less and/or play with thickness of rest. If you can put old basket back on. I can tell you this I am not putting existing one back on m900 it is clearly wrong despite being a "direct replacement" and I had clutch issues with it always. When cold all good, when hot dragging and using a clatch pack in about 6-8k miles.
My basket was thicker at the end so plates did not sit well and it seemed there is not enough space. If back, inner walls are thicker back plates will not go all the way in. 3mm is enough to F it all up
Got it all back together again. The pressure plate is about 2-3mm to far out. Tried everything. Going to take a short test ride and see how it feels. It typical Matt Brown luck, my mechanic is on f-ing holiday
When you took the old pack out did you check the plate sequence with the manual? Is the billet pressure plate dimensionally the same as the original? Was it part of a clutch that really needed a billet drum to get the heights correct and ended up being fudged by removing plates?
I've realised it's a Barnett so all dims should be as original spec, you need an accurate measure on the stack a mm here or there makes a big difference
Mine was a bugger for this. Open the nip, surround with tissue press the plate back. Some fluid should ejaculate. Keep the plate pressed and simultaneously tighten the nip. Kinky, yet effective...
Yep from what I can tell, the new stack is the right size and hub is the original part with the bike. The older stack is proper narrow in comparison, but thats more likely due to most of the friction material being worn off. Re bleeding the clutch, im willing to try it, but what I may do is to unhook the slave cylinder to reveal the push rod instead I took it for a spin and the clutch works, but I dont want to lunch it in the meantime This is really pissing me off. It should be a simple take off, replace, tighten. Something as easy as taking the seat off
