I need another rotary 2mm lead pointer but none of the current sh*tty hand-held ones available today.............so has anyone got a Dahle 322 or a Gedess type hidden away in a cupboard......?? AL
I also had an apprenticeship as a draughtsman in the early 00's and have no clue. Can't you just use a computer like everyone else?
I can use a computer and acad, but I also do traditional work...........and if any of you trained as draughtsmen, you should know that to keep a decent point on the lead you should turn the pencil as you draw the line...........if you have used a sand stick to sharpen the lead, the point may well be sharp but it is uneven, therefore you get a bumpy line......... ......obviously accuracy wasn't important with your tasks and your HB pencils I use 6H, 5H and 4H leads because I am working to 1:200 scale (or 1.250) and I need a needle sharp lead to get the accuracy........say 50mm @ 1:200 Images of what I was looking for below.......Some of my colleagues had electric ones. However, I have managed to repair mine.........after 42 years of use, the lead hole had gone oval (6H leads are hard) and the lead was breaking every time I used it, so I have today drilled it out and sleeved it with a short length of 2mm I/D car aerial............It is now working again, but the sleeve is brass, so it will wear pretty quick I reckon (in about 5 years with a bit of luck).
Hi John...nope.....those are the modern ones.........although better than the Staedtler ones, they are still too slow and are prone to breaking more leads that the sharp points you get, because you hold them in your hand which means there is no stability when sharpening.
No I'm sure the used a blade to sharpen pencils remember watching them at a very (very) young age was fascinated with the different types of lead
I always use Rotring mechanical pencils. Plus my Grandfather was an architect and I have a great deal of his equipment. Still use it too. But I mainly use Acad now too. But rarely nowadays as apparently its cheaper to get cad monkeys to do my sketches. But thats my favourite bit. Modern life sucks. The only place I get my kicks now is building a 3D model for thermal sims. But even then i am being too detailed and I'm told to keep it simple. I'd loved to be a draughty during WW2.
And if you'd trained as a Draughtsman ....... you'd know that to draw lines you sharpen your lead to a chisil point. .......obviously !!
Yep..........engineering draughtsman did just that (but they probably knew how to spell 'chisel' as well) but I wasn't ever an engineering draughtsman........ I have to work to very small scales as previously mentioned; so try drawing two long parallel lines, 25mm apart with your chisel point..................@ 1:200 scale............. I have copies of my drawings that look like CAD drawings done long before anyone contemplated CAD.
WTF .....Chisil ??????..........Bollocks !!...and my Dad was a Carpenter too Conical point for lettering and arrow heads. Chisel point for lines (straight and curved). At least that's what us Detail Draughtsmen were taught back in the 70's. But then RR Aero Engine drawings don't have to be accurate, do they ?
Of course they have to be accurate, but you weren't drawing much below half full size were you? I did TD at school and got an O Level pass with a '1'.......that was basically engineering draughting. (my uncle was one of Paxman Engineering's top draughtsmen in the 60s) I have to work at scales 1:200; 1:250; 1:1000; 1:2500 etc.........not much point (geddit?) in having a chisel ended pencil.......even if it is used sideways...........bl**dy hell, the line would be a mile thick at the scales I use. I draw needle sharp guidelines in 6H and use 0.1 Rapidograph ink lines on top......... I used to use Rapidographs up to 2.0mm size, but nothing now greater than a 0.25.
