Hi Guys any tips on how to get a lighter feel to the clutch on one of these. I picked mine up yesterday and rode it down the M4. I got caught up in traffic where there had been an accident and the weight of the clutch became immediately apparent. Im sure I came across a thread where someone said they took 2 springs out without any issues. Have any of you guys tried it and did it work? I would of thought there could be clutch slip problems with it but if not I might give it a go. cheers Andy
Some have even taken 3 out Andy.....2 certainly wont give you any issues, you can also swap your slave cylinder for say an Oberon one whose ratio will also give it a lighter feel.
Awesome. I was looking at the Oberon ones when I had a tuono factory that would sometimes lose its fluid for no reason. They do look really well made
Hi Andy, Take two opposite spring assemblies off altogether for a MUCH lighter clutch! Mines been good like this for over a year, tuned engine, pillion etc?
I will probably try that first, I was riding a gs1000 years ago with a heavy duty clutch in it and even that wasn't as bad as the duke
Swap the front brake lever assembly with the clutch one - your right hand will - being male - have a stronger grip than your left one. (Bagsy me the You Been Framed money for filming you trying to ride the bike) :biggrin:
After a 10 mile clutch holding crawl down the m4 due to some tossers crashing their cars yesterday morning I decided I HAD TO DO SOMETHING about the clutch. I got home last night and removed 2 springs. Tested it today and my left hand confirms the suggestion was correct. Cheers guys
Service kit is ordered so when it turns up I'm taking it to a guy I know who's shit hot on bikes. I've serviced loads of stuff myself but he's going to show me how to sort the desmo valves. He's done loads of them
It is rather daunting first time round. Read all about it, there's loads out there, even vids from California Cycle Works. Take your time. Double check everything. If you can get the machine up on a table or bike lift your back won't suffer. Lastly, plenty of light on the subject - In the garage I have one of those 500w halogen external floodlights I can switch on when I need a few more lux. For the vertical cylinder inlet you are suposed to work through a slot in the bottom of the battery tray. This is a joke. I ended up removing the battery, tray and the airbox and tubes. Finally, when you find you need to replace a shim, take the old one to the supplier and tell them that you need one X thicker than than the old one. My reason for this is that my brand new digital micrometer was giving different readings on the same shim as John Baines' micrometer. After all, the change in shim thickness that you need is relative not absolute. I constructed an Excel spreadsheet to record my readings (did each valve 3 times and took the average). Having installed the closers I needed to replace to give a zero gap (you should be able to spin the cam with your fingers so belts off that I had just put on doh!) I then measured the clearance on the opening shims. Finally, finally you don't need one of those spacer thingys to measure the closing shim, you can do it with a standard micrometer. Aaand do the vertical cylinder with the piston at TDC. No danger of dropping one of the valves into the cylinder. With belts off you can rotate the cam as you like.
