anyone else notice this , just thought it unusual as it was noticeably louder and had started to pop a bit on the over run .....i quite like it actually .....there was no difference in performance and she'd just been thrashed up to squires and j and s doncaster ........any thoughts folks its an 08 848 with termi's
Mine pops and bangs all the time on the over-run, on a full tank or reserve, it seems to make no difference what fuel level it's at. Moto-Rapido told me that the Termi's do get louder with age, down to the packing ageing apparently. I'm sure some more knowledgeable chaps here might be able to confirm that. I've not had to rebuild mine yet, but i know others have at various points, or the carbon fibre gets heat-spots/burns and ends up irreversably damaged.
Hi, Mine pops on the overun, with the full termi system. Never noticed it change with fuel level tho. Anth
I haven't got mine fitted yet so I'm just jealous of all three of you Not much technical help there!!! Maccaa
Mine pops too and yes they get a fair but noisier with time. I repacked mine at 5k but the original packing had held up pretty well.
Hi Spoonz, Details of your re-pack would be good, if you have any info on how and what you used. Anth
Yeah I like it too just thought unusual to be louder when it dropped onto reserve .... Really no concern just odd
Thinking about it some more, reckon it's purely the sound resonanting more through the emptier tank? Also...it's interesting how the bike feels as if it's handling even better than usual and you can throw it around loads and then...the fuel light comes on. Same sort of thing....emptier tank makes for louder bike plus great handling. Simples. :smile:
my 916 does that too. My 848 has standard cans and i love the sound it makes with them and can't justify spending that kind of money changing them.
Just decat and core the standard cans and there's not much difference. Or better still buy abmatt2002's sil moto cans, they're going quite cheap. Anth
The repack is quite easy. The hardest part is drilling out the old rivet heads as the pull pin in the centre is pretty hard metal and takes some drilling. Once you have the rivet heads of (push rivet body into shell once head off) and the bands are off you need to seperate the shell from the end caps. They are a tight fit and mine had high temp sealent which acted like a glue. I tapped the ends with a rubber hammer gradually working my way around. Once you have the cap out about a cm it should pull out. You can then pull on the carbon shell (gently) to pull it away from the link pipe end. The packing with then be exposed, it's a wrapped sheet type with a gauze sheet around it which i kept and re used. You just need to unwrap the packing sheet and remove from the core. Mine had a channel burnt into it about an inch wide but otherwise ok. Then wrap new sheet around the core as tightly as you can. When fully wrapped you need something to hold it tight, either high temp tape or i used wire wrapped round in 3 places and twisted till tight (same wire used on mx grips etc). Then slide the gauze back over and your ready to refit the carbon sleeve. If the packing was the right length and you got it tight the sleeve should just about slide over it. If not you will need to re wrap tighter or take some material out. Once the carbon sleeve is on refit the end cap. The hole in the centre of the cap has to insert inside the core tube and it needs some jiggling to go in so don't just whack it or it will bend the core tube back. Once your sure it is all correct tap it all home with the rubber hammer or bit of wood etc. I also used some new high temp sealant before refitting the sleeve and cap but it's a pretty tight fit so i think you could get away with not using it if you can't get any. Then rivet the straps back on. I suggest leaving one can intact whilst you do the first as i stripped both and then wasn't sure which way the straps went Doh ! i used blind stainless rivets because they are sealed once inserted so no water goes in or gas comes out. From memory the rivets are 3mm and only a few £'s for enough to do both cans. From memory that was about it. I should have taken pics, next time i will. Ohh and if you turn the rear strap over and bend it the other way the not for road use is hidden.
Excellent writeup, the only thing I would suggest is that I completely wrap the new wadding in aluminium tape before re-assembly, for two reasons; The tape makes the whole package stay in the shape that you form it thus making it an easier to insert inbto the can and, if/when the packing burns through next time the aluminium gives an extra layer of heat protection for the can. Sticky aluminum tape is available from plumber's merchant or DIY stores.
