From the break in my side panel I can see fibreglass matt strands flaking out, so I'd venture to say that they are definitely fibreglass. My guess some of the seat components are too. The headlamp cowl may be a different story though...
If the headlamp unit / cowl / nose cone is OEM, it should be GRP like the fairing lowers....mine is anyway. As for the seat components, the black seat base is ABS or similar.... The seat fairings on mine seem to be GRP..........Just scratch the inside a bit and sniff........(not the dust, damn fool ) GRP is pretty distinctive.......pear drops almost.
I just used a standard fibre glass kit to repair mine from a motor factors shop. That was 5 years ago and its not cracked yet. The only thing you can see is the T at the end of sport is damaged. I haven't bothered to fix it as the lettering is wrong and both panels need painting and new decals.
Hi, From working on mine the panels are compression moulded, as regards the material I would guess sheet moulding compound but am unable to confirm. Not had to do a major repair (yet) so suggest a trial piece using cheap polyester resin such as Isopon Resin and hardener from a car accessories shop, rough and clean very thoroughly. Otherwise there are some very good epoxy laminating resins available if somewhat expensive. Judging by the pic you would be best to use f/g or carbon cloth not chopped strand mat most places sell, it forms around curves much better. This chap does a good range and deals in smaller amounts: Home | Bucks Composites Mike
they're not smc panels but they were consolidated in press moulds. just go to Carbon Fibre Cloth, Epoxy Resin, Kevlar, Diolen, Equipment and Supplies for Advanced Composites - Easy Composites its a one stop shop for everything you need. If this is a prone area for damage and repair then it would be worth making a mould of the corner and lending it out so a proper consistent laminated repair can be done. The mould doesn't have to be anything great, just a quick splash mould or filler squeeze should do the trick. If you do go filler squeeze just make sure you don't go for a hot mix as it'll shrink back. failing that throw a ply of material down, even tissue and then filler on the back of that to bulk out.
Thanks for the responses guys - almost more advice than I can handle! Guess this will be a useful thread for others looking to DIY it in the future. I have to look first to repairing the rider... then the machine, but I'll report back as I get the task underway.
IMO, the easiest way to repair the damaged fairing is to get some aluminium mesh (somewhere like Wilco will have it) and some Rapid Araldite. Roughly shape the mesh to the inside of the fairing and the missing part, then put one blob of Araldite on the inside of the fairing (scratch the paint off first) and push the mesh onto it and let it go off (you may have to jam something against it keep it in place as Araldite will run very slowly).....When secure, repeat with a few more blobs. Try to keep the blobs back from the indicator aperture because it is a sod to sand down. When the blobs have all gone off, trim as much excess mesh away then spread some more Araldite over the mesh fix it down completely. Once fixed, you can gently reshape the mesh with a rounded end dowel or something similar and you can either add more mesh to the outside with more Araldite or you can build up the damaged area with glass mat. My preference would be to not use mat, because it is too easy to get the odd strand poking up which could eventually spoil the finished surface when you paint it, whereas with araldite, you can stipple it into the damaged edges easily. Where there are lips around the indicator area, you can form them with folded bits of mesh and cover them with araldite, but you will need to file them to clean them up. Araldite across the ally mesh will be perfectly adequate strength wise, particuarly when you have finished off shaping the damaged area with P38 filler or similar. It takes time and patience to get it right, but it will work OK.
no worries Mike, they're good lads there and sell in consumer quantities. I used to have to buy 20m minumum from ACG and cytec once upon a time. Korinthias, if you're going to use GRP make sure you have bought some tissue also. Put the tissue on as the first and last operation. If you're doing it from the inside as AL has suggested with mesh then you can put the tissue on last of all and then paint it with resin, which will allow you have something to rub back and apply filler to. If you are looking to wet lay I'd get a small tray also, and after you have mixed your resin pour it in the tray, that way it slows down the curing time on it and stops it exotherming and taking you by surprise!
Not sure if these guys have been suggested before, but they seem to be pretty good, and i know of someone on here that has used them. DUCATI 750SS 750 SS SP CR 1991-96, FAIRING, FAIRINGS, BODYWORK, FRONT, FENDER, REAR, HUGGER, TAIL, SEAT, TANK, WINDSCREEN, COWL, LOWER, UPPER, SUPERMONO, TWIN, BEVELHEAD, DESMO
That's why I use the Araldite method.............less sodding about with mat and resin, plus when you are adding filler to get the real shape even if the Araldite grins through, you aren't exposing any fibres and it will take primer, so when primed you can't see which is filler and which is Araldite.
Also these are out there. Fairings/Screens :: Fairings :: Ducati SS - Motorcycle parts - Classic, Vintage bike parts - European + British motorcycles
