Hi All, Well after sorting my non existing rear brake and finally getting chance to ride my new toy (2011 Mts1200)....Im what can only be said very disappointed! The low end running below 3k is terrible and near enough makes the bike un-ridable through traffic. The problem ive got is im due to go touring in Europe on the 15th and at the min im not sure i can stand my bike long enough to do it. Ive tried to find out the best way to make it better and ive not got the £££ to chuck at it, so any help will be more than appreciated! Ive read that taking the exhaust flap out can help... or fitting fat ducs... but its finding some in a week Please help!
What speed are you expecting to ride in which gear ? In my experience until you move away from the OE cat or get a remap don't expect to be in anything other than 2nd under 45 mph. I did find fitting a 50 profile rear tyre made a positive difference but that means the speedo over reads and anything other than the OE end can gets very close to the tyre. Andy
at 40mph im having to be in 3rd to keep it above 3k which stops the chugging. it just makes for a rough slow speed ride which for a nearly new bike is a bit poor
You could just disconnect the flapper mechanism and see if that makes it better, do a search for 'bypass flapper' or something like that. I did same when I fitted decat, and all I used was a spring and a cable tie. Done
Did it run OK before you fitted the termis and race ecu? When you returned your bike to standard is that when the problem started? I assume you've fitted the standard ECU back on? Im not sure the race ECU operates the exhaust servo.
It ran ok with termi on but I didn't go for a proper run I took it off pretty quick as I've only had bike 2 weeks. But standard it's terrible, I test rode one the same and I thought I could live with it but I don't think I can. If I could of afforded a later one I would of bought one :-(
That will bring the engine light on wont it? Just disconnect it and put a spring on there, it allows it to go thru its starting process
I thought about drilling the rivets out on the flap and removing it. But if it's fuelling thing the bike is suffering with this won't help?
I fitted on of these Ducati Multistrada 1200 Exhaust Servo Eliminator | eBay due to a sticking exhaust valve. However having just come back form the IOM I can honestly say it made a world of difference to smooth running too so a cheap fix. Even a dumb arse like me fitted it...lol. I run a std 2011Touring and as the others say, leave it in second to 45ish and use third to about 90.....sorted!
Sorry I meant start the bike then wedge it. You're right Paul it would bring on the light if you did it first. I think its stuck or not opening correctly. The low rpm fueling is really bad on some bikes, as mine was. But 75% of the issue is that valve.
Stick with it mate, they're not that bad once you've done some fettling. Mines got a decat + mivv, DNA filter and remap (expect fatducs will be good enough) and it's great. Even with a proper remap I didn't think it was that smooth but since adding the air filter it's miles better. Since you're after a quick fix then I'd do the flapper mod (or add decat), if you have more cash I'd get the fatducs added and air filter, I personally would try that first before spending on the remap as at least they have resale value
Thanks mate, I do love it on one way but worried as I'm due to set off on the 15th on my first Europe trip! I'll try the flapper remove tonight then take it from there, again it seems a failing from ducati who haven't done an ecu update for us to eliminate the problem. We have to spend out on different things to create a ducati that should of been.
To get the best overall performance. £45 New high flow air filter £300 to £2000 De-cat with your taste (noise levelwise) in the end can. £450'ish CJS custom remap on the Dyno near Bristol. or just new air filter then dyno...but what a wasted opportunity.
So basically I need to put on what I took off with the termi to make it ride normal.. :-( As that had the mapped ecu, filter and full system. So it seems that you have to have it loud to ride smooth. I better get head scratching ,as so far with the rear brake problems and now this ...the immaculate very low mileage mts1200 is seeming like a headache.
NO you don't have to have it loud, just mapped to the appropriate back pressure and air flow. When they leave the factory they have to pass the noise tests which means this stupid exhaust flap and a big dip in fuel in the low rev range. When you take your bike to CJS, he'll run it up and show you the current power/torque. You'll see a big dip down low. Once he's finished your horizontal cylinder and the verticle cylinder will have the perfect fuel and spark maps for each gear. Yes that's right; 24 maps need to be set. I don't know what map is used to Neutral, but I can tell you it's crap riding around in "Neutral" (see gear position sensor). Even if you took your Termis and race ECU he'd make it better. Compared to factory standard; If you disable the flapper it will be louder at low revs. If you de-cat it will be louder* at all revs. Just getting it remapped may solve your problem, but I think Chris CJS will say that the exhaust flapper must be disabled so that it's open at all times. * Depending on any other baffles and end can.
If you're taking the flapper vv apart, they are screw heads that have been spot welded not rivets. I used a dremel to zap the weld. Did you swap out the termi ECU as well as the exhaust as the wrong ECU will bugger it up? T's a sad state of affairs but a decat and tune + air filter whilst costly is very effective at curing all ills. Mine has been transformed by CJS. If it's completely standard FATDUC's so help a bit in conjunction with flap vv removal. All the best.
