Any one done this, any benefits(apart from looking good) and what did you use to get the job done. Got my welders coming back at work for a few months so I can get them to help make me up any bits I need.
My Monster 600s got an underslung rear caliper and it's a real pain in the arse to bleed properly. When I had to replace the rear master cylinder I spent about 3 days getting all the air out and even then you had to remove it, suspend it as high up as you could with the nipple uppermost and leave it overnight :Arghh: I have since bought a vacuum bleeder that runs off my compressor which helps no end, but if it was me I'd leave well alone unless you really, really want to . . .
underslung with a reaction rod coming from the crankcase is good from the point of view of removing/replacing wheel. You can modify an existing one and make your own if you are brave - plate needed for crankcase end but all easily made.
Under slung my rear caliper, just for aesthetic reasons. Looks good and works fine, not sure if there is a mechanical benefit.
do you remember the underslung trend swept through F1 a few years back? One reason being that centre of gravity would be lowered. It was only short lived though as greater problems resulted like lack of cooling on front units.
Thanks for the info, the mod is for my 400 as I need to replace the break hose and thought I would do this while I was at it. So can I use the caliper mount and just make a tie rod up that bolts to the crank??
The underslung calliper was all part of the thinking around the torque reaction arm as Chris said. The principle was that the torque from the wheel rotation under braking would cause the bike to squat (not really as pronounced on cantilever systems but before rising rates became linear could have been a problem. Anyhoo, the torque reaction arm was supposed to hold the calliper (low slung and if you imagine the rotation of the wheel, its got to travel nearly 3/4 to full circle to meet the top of the swing arm)and therefore top it from 'pushing' down causing it to supposedly squat. you don't really need it, but if you do, before you mount the calliper to the low position bleed it through or else you'll be the forever like Samurai says. Aprilia had this problem on the Mille, and removing and bleeding with nipple uppermost was their workaround. If you're after bits : Any underslung calliper mount from an SS or monster. Your current rear calliper revised length hose If you want the floating calliper then you need the torque reaction rod and also the mounting plate onto the engine case. The floating calliper hanger is different in so far that you don't have the calliper tang to mount it to the inside of the swing arm and also you have it 'floating' on a bearing which is wider than the bracket itself (sort of top hat shaped) Easy enough to make or do as its just three holes. I can give you the dimensions for them. Here you can see the differences at a glance for the floating and regular underslung Ducati 750SS 750 SS 00 Rear Brake Caliper | eBay Floating Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bracket Line & Stay Ducati 750SS/900SS '91-'98 | eBay Ducati Super Sport 900 2000, Rear Caliper Bracket Hanger | eBay
Thanks for all the help, going for the free floating I think. Might just mod the hanger that's on the bike and make the reaction rod out of a bit of stainless bar. Any ideas where I would get the ball ends from. Not sure what their proper name is.
McGill Motorsport- one stop shop for all rod endy goodness! Rod Ends | Bearings | Racers Hardware | McGill Motorsports | McGill Motorsport Enjoy
I would try industrial suppliers, maybe cheaper than motorsport outlets, but shop around - one of those products that vary widely in price.
Google? First I found, but shop around http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...b4hVDZwzS8zVkkRAFQGlurQ&bvm=bv.75775273,d.bGQ
Two good sources are Bearings, Ball & SKF Bearings, Safety Boots, Castors, Wedge & V Belts or Major Stockist of Bearings, Drive Belts, Seals, Chains from Marksman Industrial You need 8mm ones
I did this mod ages ago. I bought the crank case bracket and hanger, then a pair of rose joints, and knocked the rest up in an afternoon, with stuff I had knocking about. The only issue was with the two opposed top hats hat went onto the axle. After a few years, they wore a little, and even a small quantity of play was frowned upon by my normally tame MOT man, so the MkII version acquired a grease nipple, and all has been well.
Interesting, some bikes have the torque arm fitted with just a pin in each end, my Son had a YBR125 like this and there was a 'world' of play in the joints, never occurred to me it might be an MOT problem, luckily it passed OK. Maybe less critical on a 60mph 125 with a rear drum brake? but due to lack of power on the front brake the rear actually got more action than my Ducatis do...
With the full floater you have two different types of caliper holder as well. One with the bushings and one whit out the bushings i have both off them. But i don't know of wich type ducati the one whit out them comes from. Henk!!!
