I'm having some grief in getting the filler neck out of my 750ss project. I have had the grub screws soaking in penetrating fluid and have removed all but three which are all next together. So should I be able to pull the neck out? If I cant are there any differences between the carbed and injectected filler necks, and would one off a monster fit if I'm reduced to cutting the neck out.
Unfortunately not. These are the screws that locate the filler neck in the tank, and so bear directly(?) on the tank above the infamous green O-ring
is any of the allen screw proud? I have a vague memory of using a junior hacksaw blade to cut a slot to accept a straight bladed screwdriver. I have struggled with several over the years but have always got them out eventually as it's steel on aluminium. I'm guessing that the hex part is worn and slipping? Can you find a slightly oversize (sometimes imperial) key to carefully drive in? - even the shock of tapping it in can help.
You are right the hex has rounded out. I have tried an AF key with no luck, and have tried a T8 & T9 torx bit, with the result of the T9 having the end torn off and is now wedged tightly in the hex.
I was just looking at an IE filler cap and the screws project a bit, but I assume there isn't enough of the screws sticking out so you can get a small Mole grip on them? Looks like you are going to need a small flexible drive for an electric drill and some small grinding bits..............'cos you aren't going to get a drill bit into that broken Torx bit.
Had the same problem on the 400, got all but three undone enough, then prised it out with a screw driver. Not sure what I'm going to do with it but I think the pillar drill at work might be bussy.
So it can be got out with three screws still in place. Was there any damage to the tank after using the screw driver
No damage to the tank (apart from the hole in the bottom). Mine is showing signs of rust under the paint around the filler neck so I wasn't too bothered but I did put some protection under the screw driver (wood I think). I believe I managed to knock a T10 touqes bit into the grub screws. Its strange as all the screws came out on the 750 tank no problems and that too had been stood up for 10 years, but they were both in a garage.
I'm hijacking this tread, I can't seem to find the size of these offending grub screws. I think they are M3 but dose any know the tread pitch. I need to order the correct tap so I can make some new hole and tap them out Thanks
Try sticking a hammer shaft into the filler neck and levering it out,and usuall the same for putting it back in.
Do you get any movement on the filler at all? Try spraying some wd under the top seal,the alloy usually corrodes against the steel and the green o ring will be rock hard,try warming the tank top with boiling water.
what about filling the cap head hex hole with uniBond repair metal for good or similar and before it sets push in the largest torx possible. Leave it say 24 hours to set then try ?
had trouble getting the filler neck out on mine even with the grub screws removed was solid as a rock was worried about damaging the tank as top was flexing quite a bit then it just popped out
It's out, I just need to replace the grub screws and I can't seem to find the right size, anyone order any before?
stein dinse site show them available at 0.80 euro whatever that converts to currently not sure but from memory I would say they were about 4 mm size try these for size M4 M5 M6 M8 A2 Stainless Cone Point Grub Screws Hex Socket Set Screw DIN 914 | eBay
