1200 Finaly Got One

Mobile, you're wasting your time. The dash is fu*ked. Get it replaced.

 

My opinion on the dash is that if it is working fine, then you can leave it for a few weeks/months, say the next service - but do raise it now with Aylesbury and ask them to make a note that it was a time-of-purchase thing (regardless of warranty) as they would have had plenty of experience in replacing them, then get it sorted next time you drop the bike in. The dash light issue is annoying but not critical, and some people on here have had 2 or 3 dashes's replaced, the mileage also goes back to zero when you get a new one but there is a way with a ODB and an android app to roll the miles on back to where you were.

Remember to take care of your exhaust valve during this winter as you have the cat exhaust (spray that spring behind the cover next to the wheel every day!! else it will rust, give you an error and the whole box will need replacing as its one part). Oh and check your front brake cable is not rubbing on the left fork leg if it is put on a numberplate sticker to stop it rubbing.

Apart from that read all the scary stories on here but take some assurance that a lot of us still have a 2010 bike like you from new and they are still going strong, plus Ohlins is the better suspension vs the other models/later imo.

bugs

 

As bugs says it does sound like the dash needs replacing, so get it logged with the dealer ready for a visit later down the line. You can use the bike whilst it's like this and all should be fine. Has had been said already lots of posts on here of things going wrong, don't let that worry you, I'm still on my 2010 S Sports and it's been fine, and I love it every time I ride it! And I'm still on the original dash! However it's not seen much rain in its life time!!

 

Personaly I don't believe the dash issue is water induced. My 2011 bike's dash has never seen the rain or been doused with water yet is still showing signs of dash lighting issues.

 

Re the dash: I have good news & I have bad news.
This slight dash light problem is very well documented/lamented across MTS1200 world. Sure you can have it replaced (you lose your miles with a *newie of course, however, it's a like-for-like replacement and yep, it'll occur again. You've probably got more chance of growing wings and flying around your manor than getting a WTY replacement on a 2010. Give it a shot though fella.

The upside is that commonly, I said commonly, for the pessimists here, it doesn't deteriorate much further.

Don't get too bent outta shape about it, call it; idiosyncrocity.

* Yes Omega Instruments over there "can" do the mile clock spin up on the newie but it means breaking into it.

P.S. I dare ya to crack the throttle open in 'Sport' mode ))

 

Apropos of Bugs' post, also ensure the Traction Control sensor cable, which takes a feed from the front wheel (trust me it does) is well clipped to the left front brake line and clear of any contact with brake rotor.

If it comes adrift from its brake line buddy, flaps around & chafes, (through to the wiring) it sends the TC mad and becomes literally unrideable unless you turn the TC off.

It's bloody £££ too for a damn part.

 

If you unplug the dash the bike will do a full reset, this means as it's an S model the suspension will do a full electronic set-up. It's just a load of noise really, you will probably need to set your units of measurement for speed and also I think you need to reset the dtc.

To be honest if you have flickering/dull idiot lights it normally means the dash is fubar!

 

Water ingress is the cause of failure on the dash.
Or more accurately moisture.
The circuit board has zero protection against moisture, only the casing prevents water from entering and coming into contact with the circuit board. The casing is state of the art employing many clever features, sadly the circuit board has not been sealed. Unfortunately the multipin connector is overheated during manufacture allow moisture to enter at this point. Where the PCB joins the connector this area is prone to localised corrosion. This corrosion is hygroscopic and therefore conducts small amounts of electricity depending on it's moisture content.
The problem NEVER solves it's self, however normally it is just a dull glow on the neutral led when another is lit.
If you are getting other symptoms then you may be one of the unfortunate owners (3 to my knowledge) who did actually require a replacement.

 

I'm on my 3rd dash (including the original one) with exactly the problem you describe. If you can get it replaced under warranty, definitely do it now before the dealer has chance to change his mind. Both of mine lasted almost exactly 12600K miles before failing so I'm guessing at 36K miles I'll need another!

Re the big service, it's not due till 15K miles so I'd ask to see the worksheet for that one to make sure the belts have been done. Can't be too careful with those puppies!

 

Please can you confirm that it was the led glow issues and not flickering / missing segments etc.

 

Surely the service intervals are times or mileage, whichever is first?

 

Yup. LED Glow. Neutral light would glow/flicker with indicators or any other dash light.

 

Yup, good point. Didn't think of that! Duuuuuh..:Shamefullyembarrased:

 

Yeah, don't let the dash thing put you off. It's a GREAT bike! One of the best out there by far. Just got some annoying niggles...

 

I have/had a similar issue with the dash... my low fuel light had a dim glow whenever another led light was on. After an evening on the backroads with the high beams on (and its corresponding led) that dim glow went away, and has not returned since.

 

I've done 10k miles with the idiot light led "glow", they rarely develop into anything more serious.